I have 2 Kicker CompVR 07CVR124 with these wattages
•power handling: 50-400 watts RMS (200 watts per coil)
•800 watts peak power handling
and i just bought a Lanzar VIBE276 Viberant 2 Channel 2400 Watts High Power Mosfet Amplifier with this wattage
2 x 600W RMS at 4 OHMS 2 x 1200W MAX at 4 OHMS
1 x 2400W MAX at 4 OHMS Bridged 2 x 1000W at 2 OHMS RMS
Is this amp too powerfull for these speakers?

 

depends on the ohms for subs and amp,

 

The speakers are dual 4-ohm
and the amp ohm is in my first post

 

ohm is a measurement. Impedence what you guys are trying to say. its like saying "what are the vowels and consonants Im thinking of" instead of saying "what is the word Im thinking of."

Anyways,
Since those numbers for the amp are extremely generous (meaning you will most likely never see those numbers unless lightning stikes), wire the subs up to a 4ohm final impedence and bridge the amp at 4ohms. Adjust the gain PROPERLY and keep the bass boost low.

 

Myself, I would wire those subs each in series @2ohms on stereo, and bridge them on the 2x1000W. And I would make the box have a partition so each is in a separate cell and stay off the gain. Make a loop like this: + on one channel to + on on coil, then make a short wire go from the - on that side to the + on the other coil, then the - on the other back to the amp. There is a 2ohm load on one bridged channel. The wires for that sub will look kinda like this | _ |

An amp is not really ever too much for a speaker, as long as its clean power you can do it. Its when guys start putting the bass+10 and cranking the gain that wrecks them. Clean power is good and you cant get enough clean power, bass boost just adds distortion which is dirty power and is bad.

I hope you have a larger alternator cause man are your lights ever going to dim on bass hits.

 

theres just one problem with this...... this amp is not stable at 2 ohms when bridged


Edit - Theres actually 2 problems with this. Since he said he has 2 4ohm DVC subs, you can only wire them in 1 or 4 ohms, not 2 (unless you decide not to use 2 of the voice coils).

 

"Another good indication of an amplifier's true output is the size of the fuse used. True 200 watt amplifiers do not use a ten amp fuse. Use your head when buying and keep in mind the brand's reputation for quality. A quick and dirty way to check the true power output of an amplifier is to take the fuse value of the amplifier (or the sum for multiple fuses) and multiply it by 6 for class A/B amps or 10 for class D amps (higher efficiency). This is by no means an accurate way to judge power but it will tell you if your amp is even close to it's specifications. For example, if a class A/B "1,200 watt" amplifier has a fuse value of 25 amps then you can take 25*6 and get 150. So this "1,200 watt" amplifier is more in the range of 150 watts."

This is from
"http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audio_amplifiers/car_audio_amplifiers.htm" And the Lanzar website says your amp has two 25amp fuses. So 50x6=300 watts. Since it's class A/B. You will see a little bit more power than that, but not by much. The 2400 watts and all that is the max that it could run at a insane voltage level. Most of these amps are tested and watts rated at 14+ voltage. Unless you have a high output alt or extra battery, your not gonna be in the same field as the test equipment they use. Thats why Lanzar isn't CEA compliant. My Rockford Fosgate 1000.1 is a one channel mono block that does 500 watts at 4 ohm and 1000 at two ohm. And it requires a 100 or 125 amp fuse. So I doubt with 2x25 amp fuses your gonna get the kinda power to damage your kickers.

But it can still sound great. I love Lanzars subs, but don't care for the amps. They are greatly overrated but still sound alright for what they are. I ran a MAXPRO amp that was rated at something insane like 2600 watts, and it bumped two Punch P1 8 ohm 15's till the voice coils gave out. Just keep as low of distortion as possible. Keep the bass boost on the amp towards the low end and be careful with the gain settings. Cause like the others have said, it's not power that hurts speakers, it's distortion and wrong ohm loads. You can hit Crutchfield.com and get sub wiring diagrams for your sub and amp combo.

Didnt mean to write a story but wanted to give you all the info my 10+ years in car audio has gave me and let you know before anyone else rags on your amp that;
Yes it won't produce the wattage listed, but it can still sound great if set-up right. Good luck and tell us what you think when you get it hooked up!