I'm sure you would know excatly what this is. Well I installed my stereo myself a while ago, and I did a pretty jerry rig job on it. Well when I go to AM stations, it sounds like an air plane comming from the speakers... the cool thing is that it goes with EVERYTHING in my truck, I step on the gas, the pitch goes up and sounds EXCATLY like an air plane, when I do the blinkers, up and down with the windows, wipers, wiper fluid, locks, lights, everyting. It sounds kinda cool, but do you know what I hooked up wrong?

 

what kind of CD player?? my guess is pioneer. you either have a ground loop or if its a pioneer, the ground plane inside the cd player is bad.

 

Don't laugh... its a sony... The air plane noise is comming from the speakers... its kinda cool, but I dunno what I hooked up wrong.

 

i would try running a ground wire directly to the neg terminal on the battery. just a temp one out the window. if that fixes the problem, there you go.

 

jeez, 2 of out the 3 headunits i've had have been sony and i've never heard a noise like that. are you sure you've got everything wired up right? and it also depends on where you ground your black wire.

 

I don't have everything hooked up right. The wiring harness was from a 98 Grand Prix. But I picked it up for 30 bux, and it works, so whatever. I don't mind it, nothing melts, no smoke or wire burning.

 

what??? is this in your 88 blazer??? the harnesses are totally different. the harness for your truck is only 15 bucks. and the one for the 98 is only 15 bucks as well. you have the wrong harness. if you can, take a pic of how you have it wired up.

 

Here's an article i found that should help with your problems:
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The Ten Commandments
I. The best cure is prevention. I can't overemphasize this point. If you've ever spent an entire weekend tearing an installation apart in order to eliminate some noise, you know what I mean. Take the time to sketch the system out before you begin the install. This graphic representation of the installation will help you to avoid introducing ground loops and will serve as a road map for eliminating noise if it is present.

II. Don't introduce ground loops. Ground loops are created whenever an audio ground is established at more than one location. Theoretically, the only place the audio ground should be connected to the chassis ground is at the source unit. In my experience, I've found that in systems that have noise problems, a ground loop is the culprit nine times out of ten.

III. Never run signal wires alongside power cables. This is especially true in installations where high powered amplifiers are used. Large amplifiers are capable of drawing large currents. These currents vary with the musical demand of the program material as does the electromagnetic field surrounding the power cable. The more current that flows through the wire, the bigger this field becomes. If audio cables are located in close proximity to this fluctuating electromagnetic field, noise could be induced into the system.

IV. Always use 100% shielded audio cable. This will insure maximum protection against induced noises by power cables and other sources of electromagnetic interference. Good audio cables are not cheap. If you prefer to make your own cables, I would recommend using a wire with a foil shield surrounded by a drain wire.

V. Never use the ground wire in the vehicle's OEM radio harness. This wire usually makes a very poor ground due to it's length, small wire gauge, close proximity to other power wires, and unknown termination point. Instead, ground the source unit directly to the chassis or firewall.

VI. Make sure the amplifiers have a good audio ground reference. In order for the amps to function properly, the audio ground must be referenced to chassis ground at the source unit. If it is not, the amplifier could oscillate. To check for a good ground reference, take a volt-ohm meter (VOM) and measure the resistance between the chassis of the radio and the shield of the RCA line level outputs of the radio. This reading should indicate a direct short. If this is not the case, grounding the shield of the RCA line level outputs to the chassis of the radio will probably be necessary.

VII. Keep amplifier power ground wires as short as possible. The longer a wire, the more resistance it has. When a current flows through a resistance, a voltage drop is produced. Because of this, the ground reference at the amplifier's circuit board is no longer the same as that at the chassis of the vehicle. This ground potential differential can lead to noise and improper operation of the amp.

VIII. Don't connect all of your amplifier ground wires under one bolt. Contrary to belief, this is not required if the rest of the system is installed properly. If you do connect more than one power ground wire under a single bolt, you run the risk of amplifier ground modulation. This is caused by the current demands of, for example a woofer amp, modulating the power ground wire of a tweeter amp. This results in a squeaking noise that can be heard over the tweeters whenever bass notes hit.

IX. Make sure all levels are set correctly. Level setting is a critical part of the installation process. If done properly, maximum system signal to noise ratio can be obtained. Keep in mind that you want to drive the audio cables that feed the amps in the rear of the car as hard as possible. To do this, reduce the gain of the amplifiers to minimum. Turn up the volume on the source unit to 80% of max

 

Yeah its in the Blazer. I don't mind it, I was just wondering if anyone knew off hand... more of a boredom question. I'm getting rid of the blazer soon for an s10 so I don't really care. It took about a week to get the wires hooked up right that it would work. Lots of cutting, and stripping, and splising(sp?). It was fun though.

 

it should only take about 30 min max, if that to decipher the wiring behind a radio. all you need is a multimeter and a 9 volt battery.
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...74637&PN=1

9 volt battery works just as well,