Here's my spring list. Hopefully I can get some of it done. I had planned on finding a truck but so far the ones that I should buy are out of my price range at this time, what I want to spend has 200K+ miles and rusty. So I'll be keeping the Blazer for another year.

Paint door, fender, rust repair, paint touchup
Clean/paint frame
Replace brake hoses/lines
Replace front/rear axle oil
Adjust drivers door and put the interior back together
1-ton idler arm upgrade
New tires in the fall

The more I look at other vehicles the better mine looks in comparison. Anything around here under $3K is beat and rusted.
I suppose I'll keep this updated as I get things worked on. I'd appriciate anything I should take a look at while I'm at it with this other stuff.

What does anyone suggest as far as applying to the frame after it's been cleaned up with a wire wheel? So far I'm not impressed with the aerosol truck bed liner. I put POR-15 on a rearend and it does not seem to have adheared very well and scratches off easy. Maybe I just didn't prep it correctly.
I'm starting to consider a black Rubberized Roof/Foundation Coating. At $20/gal it should hold up pretty well. I have a 1988 car that had some sort of rubber undercoating applied to it early on because underneath the undercoating is perfect paint and metal.
Looking through the MSDS both that and 3M undercoating have asphalt as a main ingredient. They both have thinning agents and the 3M has quite a bit more which I'm guessing because it is an aerosol. Seems like a no brainer to use a brush and have less mess and overspray while saving a lot of cash. Would be nice to keep everything from rusting out more than it already has.

 

Got started on some rust today with a wire wheel. The drivers rocker panel was replaced before but done very poorly and rusting out causing the body filler to release. I also found that the brake lines are worse than I thought. I'm hoping I can get to that in a few weeks before something bad happens.
If things work out maybe I'll have something picture worthy sooner than later.

 

Well, got a truck so as soon as that's road worthy and the Blazer is in a good cosmetic condition it's going up for sale. Don't get me wrong, it's done just about everything I've asked of it within reason. I'd get an S10 pickup but the Blazer just does not fit my needs.
It's been fun on here and I've learned a bit but there will come a day (hopefully soon) that I can leave that troubled thing behind.

 

out of curiosity, can you take a picture of your trans cross member.... I have a 95 4 door and am having some issues with mine rotting out.... every one I come across has the bucket for the trans mount in the low position, but my 4 door has it turned up, so the bottom of the trans mount is flush with the top of the crossmember.... I want to see which yours is

 

I loaded a picture into my garage album. It is cupped like all the others you have seen. So I don't know what you have going on.

 

thanks..... answers a lot of my questions.... I'm pretty sure the dealership that repaired mine when my uncle owned it screwed it up.... I've been scouring around trying to find a mount that doesn't exist....

this is what mine looks like:
Library Slideshow by Bradley_DeTurck | Photobucket

as you can see, the bucket that the mount sits in is inverted, and it's the only one I've ever seen like that.... I think they may have welded it on incorrectly

 

Interesting. Definitely looks rough like you said. I suppose the worst that can happen is incorrect driveline angle and possible premature mount failures. Unless the cross member sits lower and justifies the reversed mount flange.

 

Well, I made some big progress on the brother in-law's Land Anchor. I just have attatchment points left to fabricate and weld on. This is my first large TIG welding project so I'm excited to see if I make welds that will hold up to the pressures involved with this. It's based off the Devon D44 anchor but I've found that the spade is almost 50% and the arm is about 75% what theirs is. So hopefully it will still work out in rocky type soils.

 

I fabricated some window regulator rollers and finally got them installed. Besides being an exact copy in size I realized why they pivot on a ball. Mine don't follow the arc of the window and it gets stuck half way up. Back to the drawing board.

 

Pulled the window regulator again and filed down the rollers I made. I had it out, modified and back in in about 1.5 hours. I'm getting faster at it but working inside doors is terrible. The window opens and closes fully so I can't complain.
I all so got started filling the small rust holes that started forming over a rear fender. I have 5 days before the rain shows up again so I have time to get some painting done.