2000 Chevy Blazer 4x4 engine replacement tips tricks
 

Hello all! I just pulled out the 4.3l Vortec (2000 Chevvy Blazer 4x4 4 door). I have nothing good to say to about the bolts and clearance issues on the back of the engine. (If you've pulled one of these you know how frustrating it and be.) That being said, i am looking for any good advice on reinstalling a remanufactured engine. I purchased a long block and will need to buy a new pan and timing cover. As i reassemble to engine, what do i need to consider as i go along?
I have questions about the steps going forward and i don't want to get ahead of my self. the space is tight to work in so with that in mind...any advice?

The engine has a bad bearing around piston number 2 cylinder that's why i pulled the engine. 2 torque converter bolts were loose but all 3 were in tack. However, a short mystery bolt (from where i don't know because all the holes have bolts) had been rattling around between the ring gear and the back of the engine and damaged the pan fins. (That is why i decided to replace the pan...no cracks or leaks).

I did have to drop the transmission cross member but the transmission is still in. Also, i disconnected the drive line for the 4x4 to access the exhaust nuts. The new engine comes with a timing set and i did swap the crankshaft reluctor wheel but i do need to order a new cover.

should i use and old sensors and parts? what should i assemble on the engine BEFORE installing into the vehicle and what should i assemble AFTER or during installing the engine? Should i NOT install the upper drivers side transmission bolt? Should i replace the torque converter bolts? I chissled the bracket that holds the fuel lines, do i need to replace the retainer bracket or FORGET about IT?

Well, i could go on however, ill sit back and wait for good advice! Thanks for any heads up and tricks!

Definitely yes on the new timing cover. Which timing cover to buy depends on if you have a timing chain tensioner installed. Oil pan only if damaged (your choice)..

Because of the bad bearing getting metal in the oiling system, REPLACE (they are cheap) the oil cooler (radiator) and remove the oil filter adapter/hoses for inspection and wash out with solvent. The Goodwrench rebuilt engine actually requires this for warranty. Indeed, I found crap and silicone rubber behind the relief valve in my remote oil filter adapter. For me was a good time to replace all the expensive oil cooler hoses - use new seals. If you take out the relief valve you will have to replace it (make sure the one you get is the right pressure if you remove it). CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN. Use only the Fel-pro steel/rubber intake gaskets with no more RTV than specified in the gasket set. Do not sand any gasket surfaces with abrasives or use rotating wire brushes on a drill - again this stuff winds up inside your engine. Usee razor blades, carb cleaner, and rags. Remember CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN! If you prime the oiling system, use a true priming tool that has a plate that clamps over the distributor hole. Otherwise you can get shavings off the tool down into your engine. Blow off all the particles on that plate before removing the tool and think - "Those could have been inside my engine!"

I would use old sensors and other stuff if they were working OK before. For example, my O2 sensors, crank sensor, and cat converters are still original in my 2001.

I would install everything you can on the engine except for the passenger side exhaust manifold/spark plugs, distributor cap/plug wires, oil sending unit, and knock sensor. This really makes the starter go in nice from the front, and the motor mount much easier. Exhaust manifold goes back into that hole the last.

I installed my upper drivers side trans bolt, but I had dremeled a flap into the floor behind my accelerator to do that and bent it back afterwards. Probably you will be OK with 5 bolts (but not 4) Torque converter bolts if they show any damage.

If the bracket you chiseled off fastens to the back of the drivers cylinder head down low - then no, no one ever seems to put that bolt back in (including myself). The factory did that (and the transmission bolts) before putting the body on the frame.

Don't forget to hook up all the grounds on the rear of the passenger side head.

You can follow this for break in. https://www.us.mahle.com/media/usa/m...cedure-web.pdf Note that roller cam engines do not have a flat tappet cam and do not require the initial startup (camshaft break in) procedure in the attachment. Identify which type of camshaft you have before putting the intake on. I suspect you will have roller camshaft. Either way, I recommend 30W Lucas break in oil before the oil change at the end of the "running procedure." After that - your choice of whatever 5W-30 unless you have a flat tappet cam. In that case you would need to run a 1300 ppm ZDDP enhanced oil like Valvoline VR1 racing oil or Brad Penn oil or Driven, or similar.

Once you are all done and it is running well, the SES light will be on and or flashing. You will need to have a crank sensor relearn done as a final thing.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/2364...e4ed77ca949ae5

Great info! Wow
 

Thanks so much for the detailed info! All good stuff. How do I set the timing, the distributor and make it all start up the first time?

Thanks again!

Crankshaft sensor and PCM completely determines timing on this type of fuel injection. It's not adjustable. However the distributor rotor still needs to point at the correct terminal when the spark comes through. Put engine at TDC #1 and drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing at (or nearly at) the "6" stamped in the cap mounting surface. Then check cam sensor retard with a capable scanner once engine is running. It should be zero plus or minus 2 degrees. (See many posts on this site on putting engine at TDC#1. There are two marks on the balancer. Look at a diagram of the marks in relation to the timing cover.)

Distributor
 

With the balancer marks lined up with the timing cover marks, the engine at top dead enter i set the distributor rotor lined up with the correct mark. When I drop the distributor down it rotates clockwise and landed on number 6 stamped on the distributor.

With everything lined up and assembled i try to start it and it runs for a few seconds then act like it's starving and quits. It has a low idle and diminishes as it runs for a few moments. If I try and pump the peddle or accelerate it quits.

Thoughts?

Check fuel pressure at Schrader valve and report please.

Also, are any codes being set or SES light on or flashing?

Well, slap my and call me stupid! I found 2 problems by doing "rinse and repeat". I had a couple ideas about what might be the issue and sure enough when i DOUBLE checked my work...i discovered that there are things that make even a preacher swear.

1. When i went to fire up the beast the first time i did NOT have the air "hat" on covering the intake so the sensors on the air intake tube wasn't working correctly causing the engine to quit moments after starting. so , after rechecking the distributor setting 3 times i put the air system completely together and it stayed running. However, not without another problem.

2. I took it for a short test drive around the block and while backing out the engine was popping (missing) and i knew i had another issue. Before i installed the engine i marked the sparkplug wires when i installed them on the engine before putting the engine in the vehicle. After i got the engine installed and the distributor i connected the pre routed and marked wires to the distributor. No problem, right? WRONG! I incorrectly routed 2 wires (number 2 and 4) and THEN marked them for easy INCORECTLY install... I retraced the sparkplug wires from the plug to the distributor and discovered operator error and made the necessary correction and she pers like a kitten.

Thanks for your quick reply and continued help! (Checks in the mail) but the mailman doesn't know where to send it. help!

By the way, i am very proud of myself for removing the transmission crossmember and having just enough patience to put ALL the transmission bolts back in. I pride myself on overcoming a good challange so when i read from several people where 1 or two particular bolts were intentionally left out i challenged myself and WON! You would be so proud of me! LesMyer, You have been a tremendous support to my success this month! THANK YOU! to You and BlazerForum for your dedication to improving on what exists!

Fuel is good. there was 2 codes....PO300 and PO.....oh no i think the second one was 327 but dont quote me. either way, had to do with a general misfire and the issues are resolved!

Misfire codes cannot be trusted until crank sensor relearn is performed. Best wishes!