Engine Changing - Removing Front End for easier access
#11
In another thread he was talking about how he wanted to remove them both is why I mention it, wasn't trying to be a d**k, sorry.
#12
Thanks Random,I was not wanting to ruffle any feathers either with my reply.I was just trying to help him save some time on the motor pull only.
I think I might start a new thread to ask how long and how did others remove just the motor.Just for curiosity,because I really like this forum and reading what other have done.
I think I might start a new thread to ask how long and how did others remove just the motor.Just for curiosity,because I really like this forum and reading what other have done.
#13
I hope you are prepared to recover then recharge the A/C system... If you pull the entire front clip, you will have to disconnect the A/C.
The ABS & brake lines may also present a problem.
While having the open access is nice, you are creating a LOT more work in pulling the front clip off to remove the engine/transmission.
It is possible to remove the engine & transmission (less transfer case) in one piece with only removing the hood. But that all depends on what you have available to you in terms of hoist (cherry picker) & sling. A good, high lift hoist and an adjustable engine sling makes this job MUCH easier
The ABS & brake lines may also present a problem.
While having the open access is nice, you are creating a LOT more work in pulling the front clip off to remove the engine/transmission.
It is possible to remove the engine & transmission (less transfer case) in one piece with only removing the hood. But that all depends on what you have available to you in terms of hoist (cherry picker) & sling. A good, high lift hoist and an adjustable engine sling makes this job MUCH easier
#14
I removed the front clip on my first gen when I did the V8 swap,it made things much easier since I did the swap by myself.Definitely label wires and hoses etc. As for alignment I took a pencil and outlined around all attachment points before I removed body parts,it made reassembly a snap.
#15
I left the front end on on the '89 during the swap. The Jimmy already had the core support removed & sold, so that's the only reason.
Way too much work for me. Especially up here where your guaranteed to bust off 90% of the bolts due to rust. It's actually easier to unbolt the driveline & take them out separately in that case.
Way too much work for me. Especially up here where your guaranteed to bust off 90% of the bolts due to rust. It's actually easier to unbolt the driveline & take them out separately in that case.
#16
Smitty Smithsonite makes a great point. If rusted and stuck bolts are expected, that changes the formula.
Also, on Gen 1, there is less need to remove the clip since there is actually room to get a wrench in between things. on the Gen 2, I can not figure how to get at the motor mount bolts!
Also, on Gen 1, there is less need to remove the clip since there is actually room to get a wrench in between things. on the Gen 2, I can not figure how to get at the motor mount bolts!
#17
You need to go straight in .. which is much easier after removing the rad & grill - although it's not necessary. Just a pain to try to see where your at. Same for getting the torque converter bolts out through the starter opening. Lots o extensions, and maybe a swivel or 2.
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