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Good advice. I'll check again for sure.
Nice setup. Pretty much the same that I used. I'll degree the cam a second time before making any modifications. I have taken the measurement twice, then the machine shop owner did it and we ended up at the same spot. I'll take everything apart again and start from scratch before any modification.
I use the CompCams degree wheel and stop. Had to make some more adapters with different metric threads to use on other engines (aluminium block) where the magnetic stand does not fit or hold onto. The long dial gauge comes in handy. I have measured on the lifter itself as I have two old lifters with aluminium insets so they are fixed lifters now. The next time I'll check with the cam follower I have. From there being a "net" measurement I'll go to the 0.050 lift and from there derive the cams placement. It's possible that the method of measurement I use causes the error.
I don't like all that discussion on advertised and such lift and go for net numbers which I can plug into a spreadsheet and derive the curves. As the cams are defined at the 0.050 lift point I may have skewed results because of that. Which would actually be very nice as it will save me a lot of machine work.
The piston stop I have is a nice solid aluminium bar with a stop that has a hard plastic point. Nice in order not to damage the piston. I'll upload a picture the next time I degree the cam again. All in a sturdy box that can be stacked together with a very small valve removal tool I made years ago, some test springs, adjustable rods, pointer and couple adapters for the dial gauge.
Part of the kit I use. I like COMP's sprocketed wheel as it gives you access to the cam's drive components. https://www.compcams.com/pro-camshaf...inder-cpg.html
We'll probably make an appropriate adapter for European cars where it can come in handy. The large diameter is also nice and very accurate.
Sounds good! Possibly something in your method is throwing things off. Going 0.050 on each side of the lobe and determining half way in between as the exact center of lobe should eliminate any method errors as they tend to cancel each other out this way.
Good luck and let us know how the Intake Centerline Method works for you.
Finally got the parts ordered from Summit. Including correct length pushrods. I hope to re-check valve timing this week. With a new timing chain set from the 5.7 I may have adjustable keys now.
Les,
I will re-check both centerlines, intake and exhaust. I have a little doubt that COMP has built in some advance in this street cam but not advertised it. If they have advanced it it may even help the torque curve. At least now I can put it wherever I want it to be.
Just an update. Too many things happened 2021 / 2022 / 2023.
At least the Blazer got a bit time on the road. Done a road trip to Italy in November of 2022. Over 1500 miles and going strong. Radiator has a small leak but leak-stop has worked so far. About time to finish that engine which is still sitting a the machine shop. Camping with the roof tent near Salerno Italy
In the meantime the Blazer got it's own roof-tent. Been camping with it throughout 2023. Now sitting in the garage, I'm no longer taking it out into snow streets full of salt.
I have been wondering what happened to error_401. It is good to hear you are on the road and logging some miles in the rebuilt 4.3L V6. I wish you would give us some details such as MPG or KPG, performance, and adventurous trips you have taken. Thanks for the update, Jim in SC
Still in trouble finishing the build. We bought a house which needs all our attention at this time. As I will need the Blazer for towing it was time to fix the leaking radiator. Ordered the parts from rockauto. Surprise, everything worked out of the box. The correct parts arrived and as usual with radiators make a mess in the garage.
The radiator cracked unterneath the hose plug on the left top in the plastic casing. Can't be reparired. THE LEAK THE MESS THE CRACK AND THE FIX
At the same time replaced the upper and lower hose and put all new hose clamps on. Also flushed the block as best as I could and cleaned out the expansion reservoir. Then all back together and filled with GM red fluid as per spec.
Last edited by error_401; May 5, 2024 at 01:10 PM.
Unfortunately still running with the stock enging from 1994. Logging some 200k plus miles now, but stil watiting for the rebuilt engine. Transmission is rebuilt and sitting in the shop. The new engine? Once I get out from under all the other work...
