It's good to hear you're still working on it. It's been fun watching you build over the years, and I totally understand how life and other projects can overtake things.

 

Looks like you've been putting your Blazer to good use, @error_401! That Italian road trip sounds epic! Love the setup with the roof tent, camping near Salerno must have been incredible.

Planning an Italian trip myself next year! Nothing set in stone yet, but Florence has been on my radar ever since I read this great article https://gowithguide.com/blog/tourism...ate-guide-5219. Apparently, you can walk the whole city in 30 minutes, perfect for someone who loves to explore on foot like me! Hoping to avoid the crowds by aiming for a September visit. Speaking of exploring, any other places in Italy you recommend besides Florence?

 

Next small step, verify the timing.


short block.

Unwrapping and putting on a stand. I have to verif, the timing.




Degree wheel and stop fixed.

On the stand. And now "lunch"


Finally, camshaft timing is confirmed. I can continue. Next to the cylinder heads.

NOPE, no luck
Comp Cams grinds 4° advance into the camshaft, so the intake C/L is at 104° isof 108°.
"crap" - machining again .



Cutting oblong holes for the fixation bolts. Now the hole for the excentric keys.


The boss will take care of that tonight.

 

Retarding the cam centerline vs. the crankshaft with a gear drive which is not meant to be adjustable made us fumble some more.

After cutting the holes into oblong radius holes and opening up the cam center pin hole to accept the COMP CAMS degree bushings i csn proceed.


picture of the assembled valve chain on the block.

 

The cylinder heads need shims to get the right seat pressure for the valvetrain combo.

The only measurement that is determining this is the manufacturers 1.800".

To figure out the shim thickness first i have to measure the height below the retainer. This to be done with a barrel micrometer.

Barrel micrometer
Now simply use the valve, retainer clips and measure...


there you go, now checking until the tool is finger tight.


Now i can calculate the shim height.


which i can average to 6.25 mm or .245"

 

I will need the shims to be wider and have a shoulder to center the springs on their OD.



but i'm limited because we need to be able to torque the heads and the nut has to enter between the shims. Smallest is 3mm (.12")



so, make sure there is enough clearance on every head-bolt


scale is metric.

And it turns out that the asymmetric CHEVY heads pose a problem, so maybe i have to resort to another shimming method.

Maybe i have to guide the springs on the ID.

And now taking all measurements on the guides and spring seats and then to the drawing board.

 

Hello,

thank you to share your work on this car! Nice work, lot of things to learn.

I'm planning a similar project for my car. I've found your thread looking for balance information on this engine with a balance shaft as I was thinking in lightening the crankshaft, & install hypereutectic aluminum alloy lighter pistons. I think I will end up making the dynamic calculations to see how to adjust the balance shaft weight and weight distribution.

Another thing: I was thinking in installing stock rockers with roller bearing (like in LU3 07-14 engines, see picture) to have a bit more efficient top end but still simple and reliable. I'm not sure that roller/needle bearing tips are a good idea regarding the low pressure oiling system and the small oscillation conditions. My engine won't rev more than stock, and I would like to have service intervals as long as for a stock car at least. Do you have feedbacks on the reliability of your kind of roller for street use? Maybe it is necessary to used oil with special EP additives? I don't know if the roller on the tip has a needle bearing or just plain bearing (or steel on steel)?