My 95/97 Project
 

As some of you know I bought a 97 2dr 4x4 blazer(Rusty) about 8 months ago, and then I put the motor from my 97 2dr 2wd in it(came with no motor).
Now 8 months later I am sick of the rust. SOOOO I bougth a 95 2dr 4x4 blazer with a locked 4.3, with the intention(sp?) of putting my 97 4.3(with wiring harness and comuter), 5 spd and manual t-case in.
Well now I may have a few problems:
1. When I was taking the 4.3 outta the 95 I noticed the fuel lines are dif. from the 97 to the 95. On the 95 they screw into the back of the motor while on the 97 they push in on top and theres a plate and a nut to hold them in. Can I just replace the lines from the fuel filter up?
2. Will the 95 fuel pump push enough for my 97 motor?
3. Can I use all the stock wiring(except motor wiring) from the 95 with my 97 computer?
4. The 95 has pw/pl/ps and I wanna keep that but will the 97 computer work since it had no power anything?
5. Im using the 97 steering columb since the 95 has the shifter on it and Im putting the 5spd in, so no need for the shifter.

Anyway for my other plans Im going to drop it 2/2or3(sorry not really into high trucks) by taking the torsion key bolts out and using the xtreme leaf springs I have with mabey a 1" block. Im taking the light gray center console and lower plastic from the 97 to give it a 2 tone interior. Im replacing the top plastic with the top from my other 97 since I dont like the top plastic in the 95.
Thanks,
Chris

You are looking at a lot of work. I would not use anything from the 95 that is not found to be the exact same as the 97. Completely different engine control systems. Also different locations for things.

x2 that is a massive project you are undertaking there the 4.3 Vortec out the the 95 is configured totally different than the 4.3 in the 97. also the '95 is not even ODBII so that also means changing out more than just the harness.

Yes the 95 is OBDII.
I just dropped the gas tank and it has been so hacked together so I've decided to change the tank and pump out with my 97's.
It is alot of work but in my opinion it will be really worth it in the long run.

Are you sure it is OBDII? Is the PCM under the coolant bottle on the passenger side inner fender or is it under the dash?

Its on the coolent bottle. It has an OBDII plug in under the dash.
I was just out there and Im also going to change the wiring harness for the fuel pump/rest of the rear harness.

I wouldn't be so sure about that. I have a 95 and it has a ODBII style connector under the dash also, however it s is not ODBII its a ODB1.5 setup as it is referred to, not even sure if any '95's has ODBII, pretty sure '96 was the first year

I think some 95's have the ODBII and some don't.. wasnt 95 a crazy year for Blazers?

There were three setups for 95.
#1 - OBD1 - Computer inside dash, OBD1 diagnostic port.
#2 - OBD1/OBD2 - Computer inside dash, OBD2 diagnostic port.
#3 - OBD2 - Computer under the hood on the coolant bottle, OBD2 diagnostic port.

You just have to be sure which one you have. Early model year 95's have #1. Mid to late model year 95's have #2, and very late 95's could have #3.

He might very well have an obdii. That's how mine is. It has the computer in the engine compartment with the obdii connector. Also when I had trouble in NY I took it to Advanced auto and used an obdii scanner to get the codes. I know all about the 95 issues. My 95 grand am had the obd1.5 setup. screwy.

Yes mine is OBDII(computer on coolent bottle and OBDII plug in)

Wouln't it be easier to just get a TBI setup off of a salvage yard engine? Then you could could use your current computer and wiring.

TBI? You mean CPI right?

It probably would be easier, but why do things the easy way when you can have fun along the way(and learn alot about my truck)? Why spend more money on stuff I already have. PLUS Im not a big fan of the spider injectors. I also noticed last night one of the previous owners pulled 3 or 4 wires out the back of the fuse block. So out goes the old and in goes the slightly newer.

Both have the poppet nozzles fed through an injection spider. The 95 has the CPI motor with the single batch fired fuel injector and a very problem prone FPR while the 97 has the SCFI motor that has 6 individual, sequentially fired injectors feeding the poppet nozzles.

Having an OBD2 truck already should make swapping things over easier. I would start inspecting the connectors that go into the dash for differences.

thats for tomarrow.
Just got done switching the wiring harness that runs from front drivers fender all the way to the fuel pump.

Ok so I got a few ?'s
1. What is the circled thing in the first pic? It is behind the OBDII plug. Both the 95 and 97 have them but the 95 has 2 plug-ins while the 97 has 1.
2. What does the circled plug-in(in the other pix) control? The 97 has the plug in but the 95 doesnt. It is in the wiring harness with the fuel pump, air bag sencer, etc.
It looks like I am going to be able to use the 95's int. wiring harness. YAHHHH

The first pic looks like the RKE (remote keyless entry) module. Does it have a label on it?

That other plug... No clue without digging into it and I do not have my references with me at work. Doubt I will have any time this week to look into it either.

You really should get the actual service manuals for both of them to see what you can and cannot use.

No lable on it but it is a TRW part.

I have a chilton but it doesnt show good wiring diagrams(no year dif.)

TRW was the OEM for the RKE modules so that is very likely what it is.

I got the motor, trans, t-case, gas tank, new gas line all ran this weekend. Hopefully I will be able to button it all up tonight after work.

I got it started today, but I have to run a push button to start it since I kept the 95's interior wiring harness and it doesnt have the wiring for the clutch.
One problem tho, when I turn the key on the fuel pump relay clicks like 8 times and the injector pulses with it.

I switched the wiring in the dash with the wiring from the 97 and it runs perfect again.
So the only wiring that is left from the 95 is the wiring to the rear of the truck on the drivers side inside.
I will get some more pix up as soon as I figure out how to get my pix of the camera(other computer broke yesterday).

Sounds pretty cool so far... looking forward to some pics.

So I was comin home from work yesterday and all of a sudden it just died. Got it pushed home and went back to work(to get the scanner). It came up with a p1345, which some of you know is CKP and Cam sensors not communicating. I went and got a new distributor and still no go. Checked and was getting spark from the coil but not to the #1 wire. Needed new plug wires... still no go. Apperently someone desided to siphen(sp?) my gas and left me on E(gas gauge didnt work, beat on the gauge cluster and now it works). So now it runs like a champ again. Now time for a locking gas cap.
If you want pix go to my photo albume... https://blazerforum.com/forum/album.php?albumid=194

I had the whole interior out and realized that the pass. side behide the door(outside) has been replaced. the int. is all banged up and it has a genuine GM sicker on it.

thats awesome your doing a 97. i have a 95 and ive been doing small things to it. I want to change the front clip to the new body style but im almost thinking that ill just buy a newer one. and then turn it into an extreme.

I did a front end swap to my first 97 about 3yrs ago, its actually really easy. Im not really an xtreme fan(dont like the body kit).

I had to move the boat today and my rear only sagged like 1/2". I love it.
So heres some pix...

drove it to my parents this weekend, around 350 miles round trip. She ran perfect no problems. I got 17mpg.

Still running good after ~1k miles. Had to change the exhaust because of how low she sits, my exhaust was on my rear sway bar. I still have to get the driveshaft shortened because it is bottoming out in the t-case.

how much drop did you have in the rear?

4"-2" blocks and 2" xtreme leafs.

ahh alright well hopefully ill be fine with 3" of drop in the rear.

I didnt have stock exhaust the first time(-cat, flowmaster 1 into 2, and duels out the back.) Now I have this really small single chamber flowmaster 1 into 2 then pipes coming under the frame and out infront of each tire(really loud, especially if I wait to shift till after 3 grand- then it backfires loud).
I had a 4" drop in my old 97 2dr 2wd with no problem, but it was single exhaust with cherry bomb.

yea ive got a glasspack split into duals out the back(see sig) and i really like that setup and i just dont wanna lose it due to the 3" drop. before i order the blocks im going to jack the rear axle up 3" just to see what kind of clearance ill have to play with.

SO last friday I was driving to the store and I felt the truck "hopping" alittle... I was like no big deal, Ill check it when I get home. As I was leaving the store I herd a loud thud..wtf.
Got out and the top of the rear left tire was sticking out like 3-4 inches. I snapped all 5 lug studs and the tire still managed to stay on... 1/2 hour later I was on the road again-changed all 5 in the enterance to the store.