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Difference in size between ZR2 and regular S-series CV axles. Passenger side.
Drivers side
Kept my existing rotors and hubs as they were in decent shape. Calipers were powdercoated and rebuilt with new hardware.
The axle nut that came with the new axles had three indentations on the outer edge (it's on the ground in this picture) which I'm guessing is used to make sure the nuts don't back off. Because the indentations were so big, the nut would not tighten and started damaging the threads so I just re-used the nuts from the existing axles. These were FVP brand axles, not sure any of the existing brands are good or bad. Hopefully these boots last longer than the last few pairs I've tried.
How old are your RC upper control arms? I had to replace my upper ball joints in mine several years ago and I can check my notes for you.
I also compiled a list of torsion bar specs I can dig up for you.
I bought the lift in November 2019 but it came from an ebay seller so no idea the actual age. Do you know when Rough Country switched? I could always buy a super cheap ball joint from a Silverado and see if it fits.
I bought the lift in November 2019 but it came from an ebay seller so no idea the actual age. Do you know when Rough Country switched? I could always buy a super cheap ball joint from a Silverado and see if it fits.
I don't know if this helps or not, but here it goes.
I got my RC upper control arms in the summer of 2016. I found an email dated Sept. 10, 2016 from Rough Country in which I asked them what the proper replacement part is for the ball joints with their reply being Moog K6540.
Edit:
According to Rock Auto, these ball joints are for 1999-2006 Silverado 1500s.
I also found a chat that the snap rings that come with these ball joints are not needed when installing the ball joints in the RC upper control arms that I have. I learned this when I asked them about it when I replaced mine in 2018. I haven't had any issues with the ball joints since then.
Last edited by christine_208; Nov 12, 2024 at 11:08 PM.
These are the markings on the ends of the torsion bars. I believe that I read somewhere that the ZR2 torsion bars are heavier duty than regular S-series but don't quote me on that. These are the ones that came with the front frame.
Torsion bars installed. Pretty easy process when everything is loose. I tightened up the adjusting bolts slightly but won't be able to figure it out until the motor is back in. The keys are the Rough Country keys for the 2.5 lift.
Cleaned up the diff bracket and installed new bushings.
Front diff in. This is the front diff that was in the donor vehicle with 3.73 gears. I already had the RC 2.5 lift from years back and here you can see the angled diff block and the upper control arms. I'd like to put new upper ball joints in as well but need to determine if these control arms are the old style that use the Silverado ball joints or the new style that only use Rough Country ball joints. Anyone have any clues on this?
...
FYI, according to my part number searches and cross references, the part numbers for the ZR2 torsion bars are 15956509 for the left and 15956510 for the right. It appears that the last three digits of the part number are stamped on the end of your torsion bars. These are rated for a maximum load of 2,071 lbs with a diameter of 1.21 inches. The only other non-ZR2 torsion bars for which I have the diameter data have diameters of 1.16 and 1.10 inches.
I also have a question. I have NOS replacement torsion bars for my ZW7 suspension that I plan to install in the spring. How to the torsion bars come out? Once you lower the rear bracket that holds the torsion bar keys, do they slide out rearward out from the lower control arms?
I also have a question. I have NOS replacement torsion bars for my ZW7 suspension that I plan to install in the spring. How to the torsion bars come out? Once you lower the rear bracket that holds the torsion bar keys, do they slide out rearward out from the lower control arms?
Once the torsion bar pressure is released (either by using a torsion bar tool or by separating the knuckle and lowering the lower control arm), the torsion bar needs to slide towards the front of the vehicle until its released from both the key and the control arm. There are small holes on the crossmember (see the second picture in your last post) that you can use a punch/hammer to try and drive it out depending on how stuck it is. The drivers side is partially covered with a bracket so you might have to be a little creative
Rear end assembly. New seals, cleaned out the diff, new rear cover, redid the calipers.
New leaf spring bushings all around
The rear vent breather was mostly gone from rust so installed a new one. These are pressed in and there was nothing to grab to get the old one old so used a square type easy out and vise grips.
The rear sway bar didn't line up properly with the wider axle so rigged up the Rough Country extensions to fit.
New idler and bracket. Decided to do the 1 ton idler upgrade. These are Mevotech and are much beefier than the stock system. Made the bracket as the Outfitters bracket doesn't seem to be available anymore. Took me way to much time to build but didn't really have a choice I guess. Just started learning to weld recently so while they aren't pretty, they seem pretty strong. The new idler is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch longer than the stock arm so I hope it doesn't mess with the steering and alignment. Tried to keep everything parallel and even as much as possible.
Finally, pretty pumped to find the last piece of the puzzle, the transmission crossmember. A ZR2 came into the local wrecker on Wednesday. Had the crossmember out in 15 min on Thursday morning. Stripped and powdercoated by Saturday. Ready to install. Don't have any comparison pics but will try to remember to post one in the future.
