Here are 3 pics of the Blazer and the rebuild that I am working on.

I pick the block up this afternoon and most of my rebuild kit is in.

Take good care of your vehicle

Here are some of the truck. Friday, I hope to have more to post:







You can see where the piston was slapping the crap out of the head from that loose rod on cylinders 2 and 5


This is the "anti-sieze" picture. It is a beautifully blended 50/50 mix of metal shavings and Penzoil

 

That last picture looks yummy!

 

Looks yummy eh? There were enough shavings from the crank that I could not even get a core refund for it. [:@]

 

Yikes! Have you gotten all of the parts to put it back together yet?

While you've got everything out, now may be the time to replace those oil cooler lines. If they are the 3 crimp design, then you should be ok, but if there is oil around the crimp connections, they won't last long.

 

I have most of the parts in, butno rods yet.

BRAND NEW crank I also managed to pick up the block from the machine shop - it looks SO much better now.

My gasket kit, aluminum pistons (30 over to match the bore), hydraulic lifters, bearings for everythingand the day off tomorrow means I should get a start on it.

I have heard the same about those frigging oil lines. They, surprisingly enough are not leaking. But since they are 11 years oil and badly abrasied by sand-blasting oil, I think I'll change them.

 

I would suggest going to an external cooler for your trany and Oil. Its not thathard to get them behind the power stearing cooler. This way you by pass the ones in the radiator (as they are known to crack in those plastic tanks). And replace the remote oil filter lines and O-Rings.

My engine is not that bad, so most that it needs I can do while its still mounted, I just removed the fenders to help with access to the motor. But yea, that is how an engine that has been neglected looks like. For sure use a good front main seal. Some think its the remote oil lines that leak, but its really the front mail seal. The skid plates help hide that (I know due to I just did a 96 Blazer that had that issue).

Looks like you could drop some headers on too

 

What type of a gain performance would be expected ofafter-market headers?

Looks like I need a new cam as well. The lobes are OK, but where the cam rides in the journal is all scratches to **** and the bushing at the end of the balancing shaft need to be replaced as well. So I need a need cam in short. The heads look good, but I may take them to a shop and get them cleaned up and get the valves reseated.

Any thoughts on a little more aggressive cam?

I have the new crank in, but am still waiting on my rods, which should be in Monday. So my new finish date is next Sunday. We'll see how that goes

Will be looking for new oil lines tomorrow. Does the oil really need a cooler? The factory cooler that is in the radiator sits right under the thermostat supply hose, which is why I ask.

As for the transmission, until it warms up here in Alaska, it really is not needed. It's in too nice of shape for me to beat-up taking her off roading.

 

The engine oil sees temperatures well above the engine coolant. I'd stick with the factory oil cooler and then plumb an aux cooler in for the transmission once it warms up outside.

 

Hope your smart enough this time not to use penzoil oil might save you some money next time