1) I heard the diffuser removal just made the car's throttle response better when not at WOT... It can actually add 5-7 HP? This implies 5 HP minimum...

2) What/where is the resonator?

3) I thought taking the screens out of the MAF hurt performance...

 

1) I did not type this type this nor condone it.

2)My impala has a resonator, It takes the droning noise away. Ever here a V6 with a bad exhaust?I think blazing sadle once said
they sound ratty. It's annoying.

3)There is an old thread somehere archived on the purpose of it. I think Kyle wrote it up. Keeps rodents out. <---kidding It gives
IAT sensor a better reading I suppose. Hope that answer your questions. [sm=pcwhack.gif]

 

The MAF screens purpose is to smooth out the air flow so the MAF sensor gets the correct average reading. If the air flow through the sensor isn't uniform, it won't read correctly and you may have a lean condition. Lean conditions are bad. The removal of the screen is supposedly to allow more air flow, but if you look at the design of the MAF sensor housing, you'll notice that it is wide, then necks down. The screen is fine enough that it isn't restricting anything. In fact, there is more restriction in the throat of the MAF sensor than there is at the screen area. So it really doesn't matter whether it's in or out.

I have taken off the throttle blade deflector and although it has livened up the throttle response, I don't think it did a darn thing for WOT. As soon as the whether clears up, I'll be heading out to the junk yard and pulling another throttle plate (had to dremel mine) and I'll see how things go with the original back on. I have heard that the deflector isn't there to restrict air flow, but to make an engineered imbalance in the intake to draw the EGR gasses to the rear most cylinders. It makes sense and if that is the case, I could be running rich on my front cylinders while running lean on my rear cylinders.

And Ivannj, you can disagree with me night and day. I could give a crap. You really haven't freed up much of anything over what the 2 can do independant. You've only shifted the load to the alternator whenever the efan is called for. And then it will still draw down the same amount. True, the efan is more efficient being that it only has to come on when programmed to come on, but it is less efficient in terms of the power required when on due to the conversion from mechanical energy to electrical and back again (the whole power turned into heat thing). But alas, that's an entirely different topic.

Oh, one last thing. ITS SPELLED KYLE!!!

 

What is the sense in making an example of something if it didn't have a projected gain? Right there you invalidate the rest of your post...
You are missing the fundamental operation of the fan clutch. It works much the same way as your efan does. The fan clutch was put in because at low temperatures, the fan barely moves and barely draws any power. Go out and spin your fan on a cold morning (oops, you don't have one anymore). When cold, the fan clutch should allow it to spin relatively free. When the clutch senses heat, it starts to stiffen up and causes the fan to spin at waterpump rpm, again, only when it senses heat. Once the heat has dissipated, it loosens back up, reducing the drag on the engine. Now pulleys alone may alleviate some of this drag when the clutch is engaged, but it won't be measurable in any stretch of the imagination.
"I'm right period." LOL That's a good one. In theory, you may be correct, but as I have already stated, the gains would be so miniscule that nothing in the world today would be able to repeatably measure them. In my mind, that makes any gains so inconsequential that they are non-existent.

 

Sorry if I misspelled your name Kyle I am a bad speller and not that good of a typer either. I would like to know what do you mean How much do you think I have gained I love to hear this one.

 

I think you'd be hard pressed to think that the additional 'gain' would be more than a tenth or two of a hp and good luck finding a dyno anywhere that is that sensitive. I am speaking of the additional gain from having the efan and the underdrive pullies. You obviously think you know better, so what do you think it is? Shock and awe us with your superior knowledge.

By the time you factor in that you alt is working harder when the efan is requested and that the mechanical (well actually fluid coupling) clutch is releasing the fan until it is necessary, the additional gain is a wash. And by 'wash' I mean that it is immeasureable.

IIRC, when you turn the alt slower, it really doesn't do all that much. With the internal voltage regulator, it will still draw as much power as it needs to regulate at 14.5volts, if it has insufficient rpm to sustain that, then you'll dip below, but so long as it has enough rpm, it will draw only what crank power it needs to sustain that voltage. This is probably anything over 500rpm with stock pullies and mostlikely 600-700rpm with the "power" pullies with a moderate voltage load. I can't remember all that clearly the inner workings of a modern alternator so this could be alittle off.

So if the above paragraph is correct, your real gains are in turning the waterpump, powersteering pump, and A/C compressor slower even though the A/C clutch is disengaged at WOT. You are slowing down the WP, PS pump, and A/C comp to free up some of the power they soak up. That is the benefit of the pullies.

By slowing down the WP, you slow down the fan. With the fan clutch though, it only draws power when the temperature behind the radiator reaches a certain level. I'll say it again for you. At this temperature, it couples up and spins with the WP. I will say that by slowing down the WP, you are slowing down the fan (stock fan) and may be picking up some power oh-so-slightly when engaged (over stock pullies), but this is at the expense of keeping it on longer. This ofcourse does not apply when using the eFan.

Power isn't free and I doubt that the conversion from mechanical to electrical and back again is more efficient than the straight up thermal clutch driven mechanical fan. Now if this were a straight coupled fan, I would agree with you, but it is not. Now cut that up however you see fit.

Oh and I snapped a quick video of me spinning my fan on my truck with just 5 minutes worth of cooling off time. It'll almost get 1 full revolution before stopping with the little bit of force I'm giving it. That just goes to show you how little power it really takes to turn the fan when it's internal thermostat is not up to temperature. I'll post it up if anyone wants to see it. Those of you with stock fans can go out and try it.

 

I say I have gotten the least is 10 hp with both. I beleive that I have gotten more but lets leave it @ 10 hp. THe funny thing is your saying I gotten like maybe 1 correct me if I am wrong. Kyle stop smoking crack buddy.

 

Ok let me try and understand what you guys are saying.

swartlkk, are you saying that there are gains from the upgrades (efan and pulleys), but that COMBINED they do not make additional (measurable) hp?

Ex: efan hp = x, pulley hp = y, however x + y does not equal x + y + additonal hp

Or are you saying no gains can be made from either part, whether they're put together or not?

Ex: efan hp =~0, pulley hp = ~0, therefore x + y = ~0

I'm not totally understanding this argument. I wouldn't want to get an efan and pulley set (cost over $300 for both), and make <1 hp...

 

I am saying that there is NO additional, measurable gain from running both efan & underdrive pullies. So yes:

pullies @ 7hp + efan @ 3hp = 10hp

NOT

pullies @ 7hp + efan @ 3hp combined = 12hp or something like that.

Ivannj, you really need to read AND understand what I am saying before critisizing it. You may very well have freed up 10hp by running your accessories slower and running an efan. I definitely think the pullies are the majority of that 10hp though.

 

There has to be a benefit for haveing both. The good thing is I can put the clutch fan back on really easy and see but right now it is too cold to mess around outside but I am willing to bet you get more power having both like I said before. It makes sense Kyle. Well what do you think with the accel ignition and the programmer don't you think together you might get a little more power too? Well I think so but like to hear what you have to say. Make a diagram for the pullies and efan to see it better. The pullies not having the drag of the fan will free up more horses than it would with it right? Well we will find out when it gets hotter out!