I have a slow leak of ATF coming from the rear driverside of the transmission. there's a dome shaped tin cover or device where the ATF is dripping from ending up on the bottom cross frame. drips hot or cold oil pan is dry.could use any info or advice to stop this,I'll try and send a picture.

[IMG]local://upfiles/8283/7DC6A4CBE8C6453D9CA71E67A5076673.jpg[/IMG]

 

I'm not an autotransmission guy, so someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that you can pry off that cover ( work it off evenly at various spots til it comes off). Then you can replace an "o" ring inside it and tap it back on.
As I said, I'm not a tranny guy but it looks like a servo cover to me.

 

Yeah, you should be able to remove the cover and replace the seal. Clean it up really well to determine if it is held in by a spring clip or a c-clip

 

Righto chaps.
That is the governor cover. It is press fit. Use a prybar/screwdriver/whatever to pry it off. Work it back and forth trying not to bend the flange, or warp the cover. Replace teh o-ring and slide it back in place. Use a hammer and tap it home in a criss cross pattern.

Unfortunately for you, it looks like you have a manually shifted t-case. You may have to remove your shift lever to get teh cover off. IF you try to get the cover off and if wont clear the t-case linkage pound it back on. Do NOT bend that cover. ITs domed for a reason, and its round for a reason. If oyu warp it you could screw up your tranny shifting, and it may still leak.

If it wont clear the t-case linkage, push it back into place so dirt and crap don't get inside the governor opening. If you get a piece of grit the size of a grain of salt in there you can mess up your tranny shifting. There is a piston inside that has very tigt tolerances, and a piece of grit will stick the piston, and screw up shifting.

To remove teh t-case shift linkage look for a long rubber sleeve hanging under the rubber boot. It will be over that governor cap. It is flat and long so dirt doesn't get inside of it. Stick a screwdriver in the end to open it up. Now that you have it open you can get a socket inside to remove the bolt holding the shift lever in place. I recommend you read the Hanyes manual and take the boot off inside the truck. From the inside of the truck with the top half of the rubber boot removed you will see the bolt that needs to be removed. Now crawl back under and remove it. Plus with teh upper boot removed you can work the lower boot out of the way.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cst/images/0132.jpg

Part #7 in the pic above. Taht is the lower t-case boot. See the round thing sticking out to the side on the lower end of it. Access hole for the shift handle bolt.

Replaceing the o-ring on the governor cover is easy, unfortunately getting to it isn't on a manually shifted t-case.

 

thanks for the info ,after degreasing the area i found the atf was seaping through the cover at two spots.tried to remove cover to fix the rust but could only pry the bottom out slightly and could only access the bottom.tapped the cover back on before i did more damage and covered the whole end in j-b weld.seemed to fix the leak ,i'll have to keep an eye on it.

 

If the area was clean befor the JB wled was used you shouldn't have any problems with it.

When I custome made a oil pan for the '93 I used JB Weld to seal up the leaks from the welding. I had to cut the entire bottom off the oil pan, rab up a new one, and had a friend weld the new bottom back on. He did it in stages so it didn't warp the pan. Starting and stopping welds isn't the best way to make it leak proof. So I used the JB Weld all the way around the welded area and it works just fine. Been over a year now on my sons DD.