1995 blazer 4x4 passenger engine mount, has me beat
 

The freeze plug under the passenger engine mount failed.

After 6 hours, my son and I only got one of the 6 engine mount bolts off. I’m unable to get a wrench under to hold the other two nuts holding the frame side without dropping the front drivetrain.

I had resigned myself to pulling the engine out. After reading posts of the 1995 special way of getting the upper bell housing bolts by lifting the body seems a bigger project then I expected. 😳

I know it’s a bit easier with later model years but anyone replaced the passenger engine mount on a 1995 4x4?

Continue to disassemble and hope I get the mount and freeze plug replace With the engine in or bite the bullet and pull the engine?🤷‍♂️

I never imagined a $0.99 plug would require so much work. ☹️

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...0a22f073e.jpeg
My busted plug under an engine mount.

Take passenger exhaust manifold off. Alternator mount and starter if necessary. You can work some though through wheel well once you pull the flap back.

Hey Les,

In the 6 hours we managed to remove the starter, inner fender well and both engine transversals bolts. I chickened out on the manifold bolts.

I can get a wrench on the mount bolts and broke them lose. Getting a wrench on the nuts holding these bolts To the frame is the major issue. We got one out but the other two are out of sight and reach. The front drivetrain mount is in the way. I’m assuming a 2x4 wouldn’t have these.

So I took a fresh look at this and seems there is only one nut that's unreachable. The diagonal mounting arm is in the way, not even a flat wrench will reach over. I painted in red on the manual diagram.

I'm thinking removing the lower bolt of the arm might give me enough room??? To remove the upper bolt, I'd need to take the upper control arm.

Anyone gone this route?

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...11d253a4c2.jpg
What were they thinking???
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...446cd05cc1.jpg
Got the blue one out, no way to reach the red one with a strait wrench or socket.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...b38227b4e5.jpg
Dropping this might get me enough wiggle room?

Are you trying to remove the frame mounts? Can't you jack up the engine and get the engine mount out? Frame mounts have nuts on the inside of the frame that turn IIRC.

3 bolts hold the engine mount to the engine and 1 through bolt holds it to the frame mount.

Here is the engine with the mount attached to the engine with those three bolts. Does that help any? The leaky frost plug would be behind it.

Take the mount off, carefully pry the old frost plug out, and install a new one (one that has a rubber seal that tightens with a wrench.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...b79c7d9673.jpg

Yes, seems on this model year to undo the mount, the frame half has to come out first. I don't think I can raise the engine high enough to reach the 3rd bolt with the frame in. I'm I wrong on this?
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...a619494d05.jpg

you should be able to get it with the right tools without removing the frame mount. Have you removed the distributor cap?

I forgot about the distributer. I'll recheck how much clearance I can get. Seemed the engine wouldn't go more than an inch higher

LesMyer I think you saved me a couple of weekends. I jacked it and got it off. 😄. Unfortunately I had to saw the mount in two. So I need a new mount.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...3e1672c5f.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...46670b17b.jpeg

For some reason those fins got bent over the bottom bolt and had to be be bent back to get a socket in there. No way to do that with the rubber in place.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...4349c6835.jpeg

I managed to punch out the middle of the plug. The ring didn’t give, they never do☹️. An old school mechanic once told me he’d pound a plug on top of the old one. I’m thinking of putting the rubber plug over the old ring. What do you think? My sone drives this truck and if I get a couple of years is all I’m hoping.

No on the leave the ring in place.

I have done quite a few of these in the past and you can usually get a prybar or huge screwdriver or even a 24" 3/8 drive extension to just catch the inside opposite edge of the ring and pop it out but you have to be very careful to not scratch the sealing surface (you have to just barely catch the edge of the ring and not the sealing surface). You can screw things up if you gouge too deep. Wish I was there to show you how easy it might be.

A safer way if you have the room to pound and tap a bit........ Find the right size socket with slightly smaller OD than the plug and drive the ring into the block. Then turn the ring sideways so you can get a big screwdriver through it and pry it out. Been there done that too.

Good luck.

Got it finally done a couple of weekends ago. I'm a bit embarrassed about how long it took me . I'm no mechanic but I have enough tools to find the correct, wrench ratchet, extension and swivel to reach the bolts. Each of these bolts where a pain, probably took an hour to get the starter on.

The good news is no more coolant leeks and new engine mount. I'll take that as a win, thanks @LesMyer for your guidance. I'd probably still be scratching my head if you hadn't jumped in.