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1995 blazer hard to start runs a little rough

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1995 blazer hard to start runs a little rough

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  #1  
Old 04-24-2012, 08:17 PM
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Default 1995 blazer hard to start runs a little rough

Every morning I spend probably 20 minutes to get my truck going. Not very mechanically inclined here. Also I'm new so if I posted in wrong area I apologize but once it starts it seems to run a little off. If it sits for too long I must repeat starting process. Please help I love my truck. Willing to try anything. Thank you.
 
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Old 04-26-2012, 07:32 AM
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Did some testing losing fuel pressure pretty quick. So I guess my new question is am I to assume that its the cpi? Fuel filter recently changed but the truck didn't start doing this until much later a couple ,months ago fuel pressure checked out fine.
 
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Old 04-26-2012, 08:05 PM
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Another '95 ? I like that year cause they are easy to open the plenum up to check the health of the central port infection , er injection system
Simple hand tools are all that is needed and an hour of Your time - once the top half of the plenum is removed You can see the fuel lines (nut kit) , spider/injector assembly and fuel pressure regulator .
Key on . Engine off (don't crank it) to pressurize (fuel pump runs) and see if the gas has found a new exit . Also look for "washing" of the walls in there by the raw gas leaking ... not good for engine health - gas leak + oil = bearings
 
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Old 04-26-2012, 08:11 PM
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OK so if i pull it off I need to replace the gasket or not? Might do this after work tomorrow. Because I was about to buy a new fuel pump but this could save me some money. Thanks dude!
 
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Old 04-26-2012, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by nitsudredle View Post
OK so if i pull it off I need to replace the gasket or not? Might do this after work tomorrow. Because I was about to buy a new fuel pump but this could save me some money. Thanks dude!

Yes - the old gasket needs to go - recommend NAPA for the replacement . It's called the "upper plenum" gasket ... they are very inexpensive . I always keep a couple on hand . No additional seal is needed at that point . 10mm socket and extentions , some torx tips to remove sensors . I can post a link to guide You through it - but honestly - the '95 is dead simple to open - You'll see

thought I would add - depending on what You find once plenum top removed , upload a pic or two using imageshack or whatever and You'll get proper advice and recommendations based on findings
 

Last edited by onebadsuv; 04-26-2012 at 08:29 PM.
  #6  
Old 04-27-2012, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by onebadsuv View Post
Yes - the old gasket needs to go - recommend NAPA for the replacement . It's called the "upper plenum" gasket ... they are very inexpensive . I always keep a couple on hand . No additional seal is needed at that point . 10mm socket and extentions , some torx tips to remove sensors . I can post a link to guide You through it - but honestly - the '95 is dead simple to open - You'll see

thought I would add - depending on what You find once plenum top removed , upload a pic or two using imageshack or whatever and You'll get proper advice and recommendations based on findings
Honestly don't know of a napa store near me. I took it to a friend yesterday and he said I dont have the throttle response I should. Also I have to change my oil after pulling plenum correct? Because the water will
Get into my oil?
 
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Old 04-27-2012, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by nitsudredle View Post
Honestly don't know of a napa store near me. I took it to a friend yesterday and he said I dont have the throttle response I should. Also I have to change my oil after pulling plenum correct? Because the water will
Get into my oil?

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Pulling the upper plenum does not involve coolant or oil passages - You are thinking of the lower manifold . NAPA store is not mandatory for obtaining plenum gasket - just ask for a upper plenum gasket for a '95 W CPI 4.3 engine from any autoparts store - I like the felpro brand ...
 
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Old 04-29-2012, 08:31 AM
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everything was easy enough to take apart. I replaced the nut kit which appeared to be leaking on the inlet line And also spider. But now it runs better. But it runs really rich. I pressurized everything saw no leaks but still losing fuel pressure as well. I'm not losing pressure at the filter. So its in the tank? When I test the fuel pressure it goes up to sixty then start dropping as soon as the pump stops.
 
  #9  
Old 04-30-2012, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by nitsudredle View Post
everything was easy enough to take apart. I replaced the nut kit which appeared to be leaking on the inlet line And also spider. But now it runs better. But it runs really rich. I pressurized everything saw no leaks but still losing fuel pressure as well. I'm not losing pressure at the filter. So its in the tank? When I test the fuel pressure it goes up to sixty then start dropping as soon as the pump stops.
Congrats on taking care of business !

Running rich means (obviously) to much fuel ... when You replaced the spider and nut kit , the spider assembly had a new regulator right ? Also , before closing up the upper plenum You did the key on -engine-off pressure test to ensure ZERO leaks in there ... more than once - moving on , check no vacuum leaks exist after repairs .
 
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Old 05-01-2012, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by onebadsuv View Post
Congrats on taking care of business !

Running rich means (obviously) to much fuel ... when You replaced the spider and nut kit , the spider assembly had a new regulator right ? Also , before closing up the upper plenum You did the key on -engine-off pressure test to ensure ZERO leaks in there ... more than once - moving on , check no vacuum leaks exist after repairs .
Checked many times to look for leaks in the plenum. I do think I have a vacuum leak but haven't located it yet. And yes it had a new regulator. And thanks for your help!
 
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