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1997 Chevy Blazer 2WD: P0171, P0174, P0440

Old Mar 2, 2019 | 11:04 PM
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Default 1997 Chevy Blazer 2WD: P0171, P0174, P0440

Two days ago there was a "pop" (like a cork popping out of a champagne bottle or hose popping off) sound when going to start the truck. Immediately after, the engine revved all the way up in park (as if I was pressing on the gas pedal).
I found a busted black o ring under the truck on the street.
I had it towed to the same shop that replaced the transmission a month ago. (The check engine light had come on a month ago. There were no changes in performance but they said I needed to replace it. $2600 for a rebuilt one.)
They wanted to charge me $190 to diagnose this time. I don't have that much to spend again just for diagnosis.
The CEL showed P0171, P0174, and P0440 according to them.
It sat overnight until they checked it.
When they went to move it to the bay, the engine didn't rev up anymore.
It sounds like it's running fine now.
There is an "air whooshing sound" when in drive.
It sounds like it wants to die after sitting idle in drive for a bit but stays on if you push the gas. (The tow truck driver did this.)
The exhaust smells strong (running rich?) after the pop.
Any ideas?
Fuel Tank and pump are brand new. Installed 5 months ago.
* I have to crank it a couple times before it starts up depending on how long it sat off. I've been pushing the gas pedal 2x while cranking it and it because I thought it was helping. Not sure if I messed it up.
* Strong gas smell when fueling up since replacement.
* Strong gas fumes smell while operating since replacement.
Is it safe to drive like this?
I'm a single mom of 2 and can't afford a new car right now or expensive repairs again.
This was my grandma's truck. Bought brand new in 1997.
Any suggestions are appreciated.


My baby tried to eat the paper. Sorry.
 

Last edited by Anna Marie; Mar 2, 2019 at 11:11 PM. Reason: Spelling corrections
Old Mar 6, 2019 | 06:37 PM
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Not too sure, hopefully someone will chime in... that's a long list tho, doesnt look good, nor sounds good. Hope it all works out tho.
 
Old Mar 6, 2019 | 08:17 PM
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That's quite a list. An hour of labor for diagnostics might be reasonable, but did they say why they wanted to charge for $90 of parts too? Or was that just the tow fee?

It might be tough to swallow, but I think I might want to get a second opinion even if it means it has to get towed to another shop. Although it is possible, I'm starting to get suspicious of a $2600 transmission for a check engine light too for that matter. Things just don't seem to be going well at this shop.


Should probably be fixed immediately:
1. If the tank and pump were just replaced and there's already a leak, I'd take it back to the shop that did it and complain. The P0171 and P0174 codes are for running lean and might require more troubleshooting, but you can read up on the codes for them here. A problem with the fuel pump could explain potentially several of your problems, and really shouldn't be happening if new, and it certainly shouldn't be leaking already which is potentially dangerous. You might try turning the key on for 10 seconds and then off 2-3 times without cranking to help the fuel system re-pressurize, but you shouldn't have to do that with a new pump.

2. P0440 is for Evaporative Emission Control System and a possible cause is a missing/damaged O-ring in that system. I can't say with certainty but I'd be suspicious that it's the one you found in the street and it might explain a number of things like that whooshing noise and some of the fuel smell. If you're lucky that might be an inexpensive fix too, i.e. replace o-ring and reconnect the hose.

Can probably put off at least for a while:
1. Oil cooler line leaks are sadly common with these. They weren't well-made/designed and it just happens with age. If it's not leaking bad yet you might put it off a little while, but the sooner it gets fixed the better and make sure to monitor your oil level diligently (every day/every other day) in the meantime. There are DIY guides here in the forum if you have someone capable to help out, but while not excessively complicated it might not be great if you're new to repairs.

2. Motor mounts can just go bad with age too and lead to shaking noises. Usually not immediately critical unless broken or failing, though should be fixed eventually.

3. Same with U-joints. They wear out eventually, especially if corrosion from sitting long periods like what presumably happened to the gas tank. Usually not critical unless making noises, but should be fixed eventually.
 
Old Mar 10, 2019 | 05:26 AM
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Hmm - 5 cents worth but I don't know the 1997's.

Pushing the accelerator while cranking - would a 97 add fuel which could have backfired?
Popping noise may have been a hose popping off so I would address the lean condition by starting there and check all hoses and connections from the engine.
Vacuum lines that have come off or are leaking can be the cause of theses codes.
A thorough check all around the evap. and vacuum system may yield more information.
 
Old Oct 4, 2019 | 09:06 PM
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Default My advice

I just fix my brother in laws blazer because a shop gave him a huge list and way over priced everything so my advice would be to take care of p0440 by its self. Reset codes and wait for the new ones to come up. Dont waste time trying to guess at it because it may be 1 code causing all the others.
 
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