Brought it to the GMC dealer and the problem was finally fixed after six months, four mechanics, and at least a thousand dollars later.

Turns out it was all because I did exactly what you people advised me to do in that previous thread: I bought the new distributor from Skip White. For all the great things claimed about this company and their products, it turns out that the distributor was machined defectively and could not be installed correctly without being at least 20* off. At least one of those mechanics suggested this was the problem in the past, but they insisted on spending several hours inspecting the timing chain the confirm it. The mechanic last week insisted that it was aligned 100%, which was a complete lie. And that guy kept the original distributor, and so I had to give up the Skip White distributor to the GMC dealership in order to avoid a substantial remanufacture charge fee (meaning I can't return it to Skip White for a refund).

It was the faulty Skip White distributor, and now my Blazer runs awesome. Is that satisfactory for you?

 

As for why I made this new thread (aside from this being a new problem), let me explain to you how the internet works:

People have a mechanical problem, so they go on Google and search it based on very brief details. Google usually brings back great responses leading back to message boards much like this one where specific people with specific problems provide details and usually solutions. However, Google is more interested in thread titles, so it helps the community as a whole to try to make threads specific.

When I made this thread, I assumed that I was experiencing an engine timing issues separate from the distributor installation. And let's be honest: after being on internet messageboards for almost two decades, you shouldn't expect much help on new problems by reviving an old thread.

But just because you decided to add such depreciative commentary, I really do feel the need to reciprocate: while I have grown accustomed to my Blazer, and I certainly enjoy it over the alternatives, it really is nothing more than a crappy American export that is designed to cost the owner more expenses in maintenance than a vehicle really should.

 

First let me say that I am happy that your Blazer is now running good. It is because someone finally was able to get the cam sensor retard where it should be.

As far as the Skip White distributor causing your P1345 or being machined wrong, that simply isn't true and what you said makes zero sense.

There are thirteen teeth on a distributor gear. 360 / 13 = 27.69 distributor degrees per tooth. P1345 tells you that the cam sensor is more than ~27 degrees off from the crank sensor. Putting the distributor in on the next (correct) tooth takes care of the problem. Not sure why a dealer would tell you the Skip White distributor was the problem. Maybe you was speaking with a ticket writer, not the technician? Other than them feeling they had to go with factory parts to warranty a repair, there is no reason.

In any case, whoever put your Skip White distributor in didn't know what they were doing, and that is what cost you for your last repair (which shouldn't have required a distributor replacement). I was thinking it was you that put the Skip White distributor in. The rest of your $1000 expenses were due to your taking the vehicle to people who didn't know what they were doing. So why don't you go back and put the blame where it truly belongs.

 

I place the blame on all the self-proclaimed "experts" who lecture me on how stupid I must be compared to their decades of experience, only to always contradict each other and end up coming up with the wrong conclusions every single time. Not unlike yourself, desperate to find any excuse to blame me as if this is some deep-seeded personal concern within your mind.

The Skip White distributor was defective, which is why nothing you people wrote in that previous thread helped me when I was trying to install it myself. The shops and mechanics that I took it to were all licensed shops, and they all came up with excuses to charge me for things that had nothing to do with the problem, because that's how shops work. Especially if you try to describe the details of the problem to them.

The bottom line is that the Skip White distributor was a failure. It's a proven fact. I may not be a mechanic, but I certainly have enough of an academic education to understand how to come to a reasonable and logical conclusion discerned from facts. Why you feel the need to continue to tell me how wrong and stupid I am after the solution has been discovered, is quite pathetic really.

 

OK if you say so it must be true. You are free to believe whatever you want. And I am free to believe your logic is deeply flawed, as it is a very simplistic view. And as far as academic education, I would enjoy comparing degrees with you.

Biggest problem I have with your statements is something you have touched on already. The next person that Googles your problem and finds this thread might actually think the Skip White distributor was at fault. But with my comments they may now at least think a little more before believing it.

Somehow you think your problem is unique. I can attest that adjusting CMP retard and fixing P1345s are one of the most common/basic things one has to do on a 2nd gen Blazer or any of the Vortec V8. We could have just as easily referred you to the search engine. This is the easy stuff.

 

I`d really like to put a scope on your truck to see if the cam retard is 0+/- 2

 

Here's a screen capture of mine (using a Skip White distributor adjusted to 0 +/- 2). Vovin, where is yours?

 

I had to oval out the hole on my skip white but dont think it was a product failer. Just think everything was worn/stretched
on my truck

 

Same experience for me. Dropped in at -4.0 the same as my original. Then removed again and elongated the hole to adjust to zero. I only replaced mine because the plastic around one of the distributor cap screw holes was broken and cap was attached by one screw.

 

100% FACT!

If it was out by 20 degrees, moving over a tooth in the appropriate direction would bring it within 7 degrees which is inside the window of adjustability even with the factory clamp.

Now this is opinion, however it is an opinion which I agree 100% with.

Vovin, we give direction for proper diagnostics. If you are unwilling, unable, or otherwise not moving through the diagnostic process that is laid out, you are bound to run into problems. Like many members here, I never advocate part replacement without first having been told results of various diagnostic tests/steps.

If you are unhappy with the advice you received here, feel free to try your luck somewhere else. Please do not forget that all advice given here and on many online forums is at the expense of the person giving it. No one is paid to reply here. We are Chevy enthusiasts trying to keep these trucks on the road.