Hello everyone, first time posting so if I'm breaking any forum etiquette please let me know

The whole situation started when I blew a hose on the lines to the remote oil filter on the highway and lost all oil and oil pressure. Being on the highway, I was waiting for an exit to pull off on, but after a few miles the engine shut off and I had to pull off to the shoulder. Initially, there were no engine codes, but I had it towed home, changed the filter lines, and tried to start it. It did not start, it cranked fine but would not start. After trying to diagnose the crank no start, I ended up replacing the battery which needed to be jumped around a week before and died again when I was waiting for the tow truck. It still just cranked and now had a code, p0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance, and I got to diagnosing that. I checked the reluctor wheel, the connector, the wiring, and the voltage, which was all fine. The CKP sensor itself was grooved from the reluctor and was not shimmed. I got a new sensor, added the shims, and started it. It started immediately, but was misfiring like crazy, did not respond well to throttle input, and almost stalled a few times. It had oil pressure though. I did not run it long like that. I learned about the crank sensor variation relearn, tried to do that with a scanner, but no luck. I was able to get it to fuel cut off but, the engine had a mind of its own and would rev up and down by itself with consistent throttle input (all the way to the floor) so I'm thinking that's why the relearn did not work if that was the issue to begin with. After the first relearn attempt I shut it off to try again, but now it would start, run rough and misfire for like two seconds then stall. I tried to restart it around 3 or 4 times then the battery (a new one) died. After charging it, it would do the same thing, start and sound horrible and shake all over the place, then stall. And now the p0336 was gone but had p0399 and p0341. I tried changing the number of shims, but no luck, and I checked everything with the camshaft position sensor and could not find an issue. So I start a misfire diagnosis starting at the distributor because I was right there at the camshaft position sensor. Around a month before this, I had a misfire because of a shorted distributor cap and ended up replacing the cap, rotor, wires, and plugs, so I was pretty sure they were going to be fine and they were. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but because it was starting, and I replaced the fuel pump, filter, and injectors a few months ago I don't think they are the issue. While going through this I end up at the battery again and with key on engine off (obviously) the battery voltage is dropping extremely fast. I shut everything off, charge the battery again, and in around 30 seconds the voltage went from around 12.5 to around 9 and was still dropping. I recharge it and start pulling fuses. When I pull the IGN A fuse the voltage stops dropping so fast. With the voltmeter in series with the battery and the fuse in it was pulling more than 10 AMPs, with the fuse unplugged it would drop to around 3. Confused, I decided to try to see if there are any new codes, but since the battery died all the codes were gone. I try to start it to see if it will throw anything, but the truck starts acting crazy, the tack (which is now stuck at 6000 RPM), speedometer, battery, and fuel gauges are all over the place, the door locks are cycling by themselves, and the rear glass unlocked itself. I got out unplugged the battery and left it. I have a compression tester on the way and still have to check engine timing to rule those out of the misfire and stall issue. I am planning on going through a ground distribution diagram and checking all of those but there's some bad weather rolling in and I don't feel like being cold right now.

One other thing I noticed is that the valve cover gasket on the passenger bank was blown out on the entire side of the cover on the intake side, I noticed that when I first lost oil pressure and the truck shut off. But it's confusing because the only reason I can think that the gasket blew is because of excess crankcase pressure, but the PCV breather tube is in that valve cover and it should have vented the pressure. I haven't fixed it yet, and I'm even not sure if it's related to any of the issues here or if it's been like that for a while. But the engine should run without the valve covers even being on, so... What I did do though is plug the hole in the intake where the breather attaches and plug the PCV valve to eliminate the possibility of any vacuum leaks.

Before this whole situation, the truck ran great. The oil was just changed a month or so ago and I actually had plans to start making some other upgrades. I know there's a lot here, and I may have missed something critical, but if anyone has any advice or a similar situation please let me know. Also if anything is unclear let me know and I'll try to explain it better. Appreciate any help, thanks

 

If you drove engine several miles without oil until it wouldn't run, then it is probably junk. Sorry