I have one of these problems that started right after I put the vehicle on the road after a 1 year storage, which before it never had an issue.
I am working on the corrosion issue on the connecters to clean them up.
Service 4wd light is on and the 4 button switch won't budge from auto4wd.
Next step is to check resistance at the TCCM connector on A and B.
I got all that so far from other threads, but question is if the TCCM is making no sound does that indicate either a bad TCCM connection or bad TCCM which I should get clicking first before looking and vacuum and other switches?
IOW, shouldn't the TCCM relays and dash switch operation work regardless of the downstream vacuum and controls- so if the relays aren't working it would indicate at least so far the TCCM relays are bad or the connection corrosion is at fault?

 

Update
I cleaned the contacts on the TCCM connectors and using a pin point to puncture/read the actual connector harness wires and the probe to read the contacts on the circuit board solder joints- removed from the metal can I have good contact on all the pins. All the 32 pins are good. I used DEOX on them to prevent any more corrosion.
While checing the vacuum switch under the battery -which seemed OK and also the center fire wall selenoid- which clicked with a 9v battery test,
I happened to notice a good spark when reconnecting the battery positive along with a clicking sound from the front end as though something is always being powered.
This makes sense because if the vehicle sat too long over the past dormant year the battery would go dead.
So it seems like some actuator switch is hung up and constantly sending power to the front end. This explains the drain on the battery and the front end actuating, but what now would be the hung up switch doing this?

 

Chaulk this one up as another four button switch.
Even though the lights all flash at startup the switch ended up the problem as was revealed with a scan code of B2725.
I broke down and took it to a dealer this morning. Was $75 for the part and another $100 labor for diagnostics and work.
These OEM switches are at Autozone for quite a bit less. Part #sw2170 $53.99.
But I got to learn the system, clean the TCCM connectors and got all the pins DEOXED so that won't creep up on me, and I varified the conditions of the vacuum switch and actuator so the cost to pay once and know from now on was really worth it in the long haul.
I'm figuring the issue is the switch location in the dash right next to the heat vent so all the components are getting frozen in summer AC and over heated in winter. One of these days I'll just pick up a spare.
No one replied but I got most of my info on the forum so thanks to all previous posts.

 

Could have saved the $100 and tested the resistance (search for "NV236+resistance" with an author of "swartlkk"). The information was available...

Glad you got it fixed though!

 

Thanks swartlkk,
I did check the switch and found all near the exact readings other than the "no buttons pushed" reading was low, so thought either I lost one resistor or the baseline reading was a fluke in my switch or in print.
My other concern was that the vehicle was sitting so long and I was thinking perhaps something was just froze up on the transfer case so ordering the switch online and waiting the shipping time while driving it might not be the best idea in terms of all the "what ifs".
I ordered a spare switch to have on hand for the life of the vehicle so I can pop it in as a first trial next time. Getting the OEM and having only 120K I'm sure I'll need it anyway.