Hey everyone, want to thank you first off for taking your time on reading this.
I am very good with computers but not so good with cars but I am grateful enough that my father is a mechanic.

I had quite a lot of issues recently and got them fixed, ignition switch, gauge clusters, and something else that wasn't letting me get power to the engine when giving it gas, it was a sensor is what my dad told me.

My questions are:

1: Any idea why my blazer would need to be hot to run smoother? I start it up and if I am in a hurry I still have to wait because if I don't, and try to give it gas it has no power behind it. But once it is warmed up roughly a quarter(not sure the number) full on the temperature gauge it runs fine and gets power when I give it gas... Any idea what would be causing this?

2: Back when we had issues before with ignitioin switch, it not taking power, and wanting to shut off when giving it gas and letting go of the throttle to where it almost stalls, my dad did a test and said it was good on the fuel pump, he was saying at the pump it was 55 psi, but I have read on here other people saying that 55 is pretty low? Should I look into getting a new fuel pump and work with him to get it put the new one in? Advanced auto wants $230 but I found one on amazon for $70: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008032QBA

Would that fuel pump be okay? I was going to buy the filter and the lock ring with it as suggested on Amazon as "Frequently Bought Together"

Thank you for your time reading this, these are my only issues other than new tires soon but I know how to fix that lol...

Take care,

stickel87

 

You should test both leak down and pressure at the Schrader valve and with the pump dead-ended per the instructions in the sticky at the top of the 2nd generation forum. Report 4 values.

Sounds like your Dad tested pressure at the Schrader valve, probably with the engine running. I would say that testing is incomplete and inconclusive on the fuel pump. Anything in the 55psi range would be a regulated fuel pressure. Fuel pump should be capable of putting out much more when dead ended and this pressure not leak down rapidly when shut off. DO NOT GUESS or do part of the tests because they are not convenient and take some effort! After all, fuel pump in a 4-door is FAR from a trivial repair.

Don't sweat the exact 60psi minimum spec in the sticky if you have the 2003-2004 MPFI injection spider upgrade (and most of the older Blazers do by now). My 2001 has the AC Delco MPFI upgrade kit, and it regulates to 58 psi with the engine not running. With the MPFI upgrade, a minimum pressure is not required to get the injector to deliver fuel as they did in the original poppet style injectors.

If the fuel pump tests bad, replace it with a good one (not a cheap one).

As far as what your problem could be..... it could be lots of things - even a bad vacuum hose or simple vacuum leak somewhere. But don't' start looking to shotgun it with parts or taking guesses based on Internet forums - that can get really expensive, really fast as there is a lot of misinformation out there! Verify the fuel pump operation completely first, and if nothing is found there we will then move on to verifying ignition system operation. Need to get those out of the way, since a lot of the time performance problems are found because of simple problems in these two areas.

As an aside, are you getting the SES light on at any time? Does the SES light work when you turn the key on with engine off? Do you have a OBD2 scanner? If so, which one? If not, do you have an Android phone or tablet?

 

only code we get is EGR valve code with OBD2 scanner, so the check engine light is on but its only that valve issue

 

OK - please tell me all the details about the EGR code and the SES light.

 

the catalytic cobverter was clogged up and cause the EGR valve to back up with pressure and melted my entire wire harness... we fixed the wiring harness, codes that were given at the time were EGR Valve, Ignition switch(like 5 codes) replaced with ACDelco ignition switch and took away all the codes but the EGR valve, my dad broke off the EGR valve/plugged it?

Not sure, I don't require inspections in my state so we didn't need it he said...

 

It may be that your broken EGR or lack of EGR Valve is allowing a vacuum leak (internal or otherwise). If so, that would certainly cause running problems. I also worry a bit about the wiring harness repairs. Were all wiring repairs (connections) soldered and protected with heat shrink tubing? Crimp terminals seldom work for very long.

I suggest you put an EGR valve back on it before going on and get the SES light off. You can probably get one pretty cheap at a U-pull it junkyard. Whether or not the EGR is the cause of your particular complaint, the vehicle is never going to run as designed with the SES light triggered. Setting codes and having the SES light on takes the PCM into different fail-safe modes, depending on the problem.

Also, are you aware that you have to have a functioning Cat Converter for the PCM to be happy. You can't just remove it. PCM is able to know that a functioning cat converter is installed through O2 sensor readings taken before/after the converter.

I'm sorry but it sounds like your problem is most likely due to incomplete repairs or repairs not done correctly. We can work through it if you like, but everyone including your Dad needs to be on board.

Let us know.