I am exhausted from this swap & can NOT get this engine to start!!
Here is the history:
Wife overheated our 2000 Blazer LT 4x2 4 door 4.3L/4L60E (VIN #1GNCS13W5Y2223011). Ended with a cracked head and a 4L60E that only had 2nd,3rd & Rev. I pulled engine & trans out.

Found a 2000 Blazer LS 4.3L/4L60E 4x2 2 door (forgot to get VIN but can get if needed) wrecked with 136,000 miles on it. Pulled the 4L60E, torque convertor, lower & upper intake manifolds with complete injection system, flywheel, A/C compressor & starter. Took my Dad & toolbox to this Blazer since we pulled items ourselves we were able to get everything for $115 + old 4L60E & convertor.

Found a 1999 Silverado (VIN #1GCEC14W9XZ107443) 4.3L/5-speed manual, short cab, long bed 4x2 with 106,000 miles on it hit hard in back. Went to this truck, pulled engine & trans out, left trans behind, seller was so happy to have trans on the ground in good shape they sold me engine for $225 + my old engine. Engine only had lower intake, they had sold spider injectors & upper intake before I got there.
So far so good.
Mated the 4L60E to the 4.3L. Purchased Fel-Pro intake gasket kit, spark plugs, cap, wires, rotor, oil, oil filter, 2 gals Dexcool, 14 quarts valvoline Dex III, trans filter & pan gasket from NAPA. Spent $350.

The used starter is on engine now but I took my original starter & alternator to a local starter/alternator rebuild shop. Alternator checked good but starter needed rebuilt. Spent $70 for rebuild which at Autozone is $155+core & Advance $149+core.

I cleaned, scrubbed, painted engine compartment, engine & trans. Just wanted it to be nice, clean low budget swap. I felt ptetty good being around $775 so far....

My first problem: engine turms over and wont start

Im not sure about the EDI distributor? I set #1@TDC, set distributor in with the rotor pointing directly at the "6" on the distributor housing. Haynes manual says rotor should be "within a few degrees of the 6". Mine is dead on top of the "6" so when you look at distributor its pretty much at 8:00. I am NOT sure of this?? Im sure #1 is at TDC and timing mark is lined up perfect with "V" on timing cover.
Does this sound correct? Could I be 180 or a tooth off?? It won't even fire with starting fluid. Once I feel better about the timing I will be borrowing or buying a fuel pressure guage.

Can the experts please lend some advice??

It would be so nice to drive our DIME again. I know its a long way to go on an old truck with 178,000 miles but we just bought our first condo, dont need any car payments & since my Dad purchased the Dime new in 99 for my Mom its sentimental to us. Like my wife says " cars can come & go but the Blazer stays forever, not for sale"LOL

 

https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-articles-diy-29/edi-engine-timing-24373/
That should help.

 

Thank you so much for the link.

According to the link you sent me, I only did half the job. Im getting ready to tear it down & install distributor according to your links directions. Im a lil slow at all this but I will reply with another link in 3-4 hours on how it went. Im also sending it over to a mechanic in the morning with the proper scan equipment (or so I think its the right scan equipment) so he can reset timing & "relearn" modes in computer.

Besides scan instructions in link is there any other "relearn" modes or scan related activities I should make sure he is aware of and that need to be done while its there?

 

We now have spark!
I swear it almost started up, the link with EDI directions was priceless.
Haynes manual is very poor if I didnt have so many notes in it I would throw it away.

Im guessing my next issue is fuel
Will know more tomorrow and post an update.
Thanks again

 

Glad the link helped! It sounds like you are on the right track. Hook up te fuel pressure tester to the schrader valve. With the key on, engine off the fuel pressure should be between 60 and 65 and not go below 55 for 10 minutes. There are no published specs for cranking or running fuel pressure. Post back your initial psi and 10 minute later psi.

 

Ok, just left my dime at the mechanics shop.
I had the distributor installed 1 tooth off, he fixed that
it runs with starting fluid
fuel pressure test at the schraeder valve 67 psi with key on and drops to 58 over the 10 minute wait
My mechanic also says his scanner is showing a massive vacuum leak somewhere
I'm going to his shop in the morning to help take the intake manifold apart and try to identify anymore issues

 

Fuel pressure test done yesterday, this morning scanner was reporting a massive vacuum leak, silicone near the distributor at the back of the intake manifold somehow developed a void. We have lower intake manifold back off and I am running to NAPA to get a new intake gasket set right now.

Motor runs on ether alone.
Will update after intake manifold back together.

Are my fuel pressure numbers where they need to be?

When installing the upper intake over the spider injector unit how do you get the injector unit and manifold to properly seat?

I'm not very confident in this part of the final assembly.

 

Fuel pressure: Engine OFF. Connect a fused jumper wire from battery positive to the fuel pump prime terminal in the underhood fuse panel;



Fuel pressure must be 60psi to 66psi while the pump is running. Must remain above 55psi for at least 10 minutes.

Upper intake: Make sure the fuel metering block slides freely front to rear in the bracket. Oil the O ring on the fuel metering block, position the plenum, pull up on the metering block while pushing down on the plenum.

 

Ok, we will double check fuel pressure numbers in morning

When we left tonight, we installed new lower intake gaskets, wanted lower intake to set up overnight before we start wrestling upper intake together. The FelPro intake gasket kit from NAPA used to include lower intake "end gaskets", now they give you a small tube of black silicone to run a bead at each end which requires some time to set up & cure.
The reason for doing intake over again was scanner showed massive vacuum leak, we found a void in the bead of silicone at the rear of the manifold in front of distributor (I do not know how I managed to do that on 1st install of lower intake but it was me) hoping this corrects vacuum leak.

Thank you again for everybodys help
BF should be proud today because the shop I had my dime towed too, everytime something id questioned or needs to be verified 3 different people run to computers & start printing their best answers, everything BF I have brought to "the table" is more helpful and complete, by miles, than anythkng else we can get our hands on, BRAVO BF!!!
Im just happy to be able to put it in a shop that lets me hang out all day, chase parts, turn wrenches & have input on which direction to go, I dont know any other places that would let me be in this involved. Very cool people helping me out of a problem that I created

Please keep with the posts, I will give another update tomorrow

 

If the "bead of silicone" was leaking, (on the block, between the heads) it would not cause a vacuum leak, only an oil leak. When installing the lower intake, it must be set straight down and not moved. Sliding the lower intake to line up the bolt holes is what causes the silicone to "fall off" the block. Before applying the silicone, the block and the intake must be clean & dry. Allow ~10 minutes for the silicone to "skin over" before installing the intake.