Hey y’all. I’m new to all things Chevy and I’m putting an engine, from a 98 2wd s10 pickup, into a 2002 4wd blazer. So far, I’ve swapped-over oil pan, sump, pump, oil cooler-filter adapter/lines, intake/exhaust manifolds- new gaskets, adapted knock sensor, changed rear main seal, new spark plugs. Anything else I should know about, before I put the engine in? I don’t want to do it twice. These things are a pain to work on.

Also, would a body lift be worthwhile, for more wrenching clearance?(I could use slightly-bigger tires, where I live/drive)

Any thoughts? Please and thanks,

Pat

 

everything in theory should work, except the knock sensor, you will have an oversized hole and will need to adapt it, i forget the thread sizes but they should be easily found on the forum, infact i think les posted them in a thread i had up a while back about the knock sensor on my 1999 with an 01 block.

 

Leave the passenger side exhaust manifold off when putting engine in. Then you don't have to twist engine to avoid damaging the evaporator core housing and you have a good place to feed the starter in before putting the manifold back on. Disconnect the steering shaft at the gear for room on the driver's side. Floor jack under the trans pan with a piece of wood. Be sure to hook up ground straps on back of heads before moving it back that final couple of inches and bolting up to the bellhousing. Throw the fuel line clamp at the back of the driver's head in the junk pile. I would consider the one bellhousing bolt behind the accelerator pedal optional unless you have already zipped a hole in the floorboard for access. Don't bend up the trans cooler lines. Do fasten the trans cooler lines to the oil pan when you are done using the factory bracket

 

Good overall advice. This past summer when I pulled my trans (4L60E, 2wd), I was able to remove that bolt with a shallow socket and wobble extension, plus a couple other long 3/8 extensions. This was accessible only after the trans cross member was removed and engine/trans was tilted back as far as it would go. In the process I think I tore my OEM engine mounts, but that wasn’t a big deal because I was replacing them with JTR mounts.

Before I reinstalled the trans, I was able to massage the tunnel so reinstallation of that god awful bolt was easier (another great use of the BFH ! )

 

Yep that's the factory method - tilt the rear of engine down for access. I'm guessing the OP is leaving the trans/transfer case in the 4wd in place. Makes that bolt very difficult if not impossible. I zipped a small 2"x2" flap in the floor for access in mine and bent it back afterwards. Others have described removing the motor mounts to drop the engine down some, or raising the body.

 

Yikes sounds like a lot of trouble, glad mine is just a 2wd. Even then it’s still a pita, but at least it’s doable

 

Thanks, Mods
for the knock sensor, I took an npt plug, drilled/tapped it for a bushing to except the bolt for the newer sensor. Seems like it should work all the same(I hope)j.

 

Don't worry, what you did will work just fine!! Everything sounds perfect. You ticked all the boxes on my list in your first post! Looks like you've been reading this forum.