plug out of #4 all six taken out identical wear and no thread issues on plugs

#4 cylinder after took plug out , and new one didnt thread in, so took pic of why with cell phone

tank back in after redoing surface rust

surface rust gone

surface rust work, even drive shaft and frame
Doing a speak plug change out , all matched on wear and no thread issues on old plugs. But #4 stripped hole.. new plug never would screw in by finger tip, so took pic with cell phone. looks like a been fixed before by prior owner ? wife bought this Blazer 4 years ago. just had tranny switched out 2 months ago, lost reverse in it. So called local machine shop quoted $20.00 and bring in Head Only and he'd fix it .But after spending $1500.00 for tranny job, didn't need this going on. as still car sits from install new fuel pump &gas filter. cleaned up tank area and frame from surface rust, while it was out. prior posts I made and never got a answer due to cut short on post when clicked enter.. at that time had every issue noted, and site left out s lot of info . So the plug change was a good idea while car sits doing repairs till this #4 hole issue.. As all the prior mentioned was ready to proceed , since had tank installed, filter installed, new battery, still not hooked up yet and new fuel pump relay ,, just fill tank up with gas.. and still when get all this crap done, wondering if , the security Pass lock caused the no run situation in 1st place ?? So wonder if #4 can be re threaded with out having to take head off ?? and do in frame?? know other wise big cost for the gaskets and labor etc ??

 

Even if you can find someone who is willing to try it with the head on the vehicle, problem is that the thread repair process will leave metal inside of the cylinder. If you do take the head off, just don't try to take the EGR tube out of the driver's side exhaust manifold without heat and expertise. Better to unfasten the tube from the intake manifold, unbolt the exhaust manifold from the head/exhaust pipe, and take the tube along with the exhaust manifold as one piece. Unfortunately the manifold has to come off to access your lower head bolts. You will need to remove your steering shaft for access. Hate to be the bearer of bad news but it's not going to be fun. However with lots of patience it CAN be done. There is a fuel line clamp bolted to the back of the head that will be nearly impossible to get out until you move the head forward just a bit. So wait until it is ready to lift off to get at this one. Then don't worry about putting it back on. Good time to replace those old LIM gaskets in any case! Use the metal/rubber FelPros when you go back together. Good luck.

 

thanks you Les it had to sit a while waiting for tranny repair, then just 6 trips to town over a few weeks, then the stop at bank and shut off for 5 min and a crank but no run issue,, there by replacing fuel pump scenario.. which may of not been a dead pump. but the passlock security system.. I opened door and start and drove to town with a Walmart ign key copy I had made, and didn't realize it till a week after had it towed home.. no chip in spare.. I'm bad about having keys to all our vehicles in pocket and stick wrong one in once in awhile/. sure didn't need the #4 issue just having the tranny replaced , then the time I spent on fuel tank/pump issue.. wife said she isn't going to spend $ on Motor after shelling out for tranny.. But I replied well still cheaper fixing it thn buying a New One or getting another Used One and some ones else's issues they didn't want to fix. I'm the rare Bird , as Buy New over the years, keep maintained. just sell or trade off due to being tired of the car , instead of getting rid due to minor or major issues. Bought a few used over the same years also.. wild hairs lolo. But I keep in mind ..when buy used am I prepared to replace or repair engine ,tranny, AC, what ever car needs ? and had some had a lot more $$ sunk into than was worth.. But where 100% issue free.. Bad part tranny has a 6 month 6,000 mile warranty. my luck it will expire before get the #4 thread fixed lol.. thanks for the info . Appreciated Randy

 

As the proud owner of a Ford with a 2-valve V-10, I'm all too familiar with the process of repairing spark plug threads with the head on the engine. Just make sure the valves are closed and the piston is nowhere near TDC before you start. You can check both by applying air pressure at the spark plug hole. After you're finished installing the threaded insert, use a blowgun with a long tube to stick inside the cylinder and blow all the debris out through the plug hole. Alternatively, you can use a shop vac with a thin hose (you'll have to rig some kind of a reducer) to suck it out. I've done three so far on my engine with no problems. Just make sure to get ALL the junk out. I also have a "borescope" camera that connects to my phone, which really helps to be sure everything is clean.

 

Howdy Tom
I've read and viewed a lot on you Tube, about in frame rethreading, but seems most of those and repair kits/tools, are for Aluminum Heads. I believe these are cast iron, and was surprised when I finagled my cell in there to get a pic...looks like a copper water pipe insert lolo.. But if was a past thread repair either from a take head off and machine shop or was done on car ? No video u tube or even on line search, ever mentions of repairing. a pre rethread repair again for the 2nd time ?? lolo.. all the taking off of intake manifold and Head or Heads. ( If have to go that route may as well Bite the Bullet and empty the Wallet , and do the whole top set of all gaskets involved geese..See a lot of used engines sell cheaper than the cost of all materials needed to complete correctly.. Then a lot of reads of engine swaps and still no start and run issues on this site as well as others..well if I can manage get #4 rethreaded and working.. wonder if next time plugs is changed be same thing again? it had AC 41-932 come out and I installed 5 of 6 , AC R44LTS6 copper core , due to being able to gap .060 . and the tungsten weren't gap able. then know they PIA , but figure don't need to stay in 100,000 K and stick. after this think CHIT , put some in that last 2 Million miles and not have to deal with it rest of life time haha.. Well I was thinking Borescope , and seen the similar type you have, but many listed on ebay and other sites. I have a older Verizon Motorola Droid cell.. know for $150.00 + tax can rent one for Auto Zone then get refund when turn in. but that be cash, did some past tools with bank card and took them a week or longer to refund my $$..But the big ones be good to keep if used a lot. but the cell phone type if worked good be a better option for a keeper cost and use wise.. like a drill sits on shelf more that used lolo. But wife drops tiny jewelry a lot in floor vents and sink.. so 1 on hand may be handy.. So i'm inclined for a in car fix for the cheaper and fastest way to get it running.. Wife's 2nd car and she uses it mostly winter drive for work due to 4x4. My truck is still Down got the engine time chain, etc done, had a water leak out of timing chain gasket cover and block, new water pump and all that jass on a DODGE 5.9 magnum, butt kicker is the dang Heater core got that in, but dash had 2 cracks and it transformed into jig saw pieces , so it sits till can coin cost of new top dash ,, and not the flimsy cover.. I had a19 85 Silverado 6.2 Diesel prior, Bought New.. and wife harped about getting a dang Dodge.. 2001 1500 Quad Cab 4x4 5.9I should of kept my Chevy and traded her in for a newer model back in 2001 hahaha.. thanks Tom appreciated Randy .. but the iron head on 4.3 ? the tap cut that ? I have a 14mm thread chaser had for years. but that bore no thread , which was weird as screwed plug out same as the other 5 …. and not even a shade tree to work under , open air drive way ..lolo so the storms and rain put a stop on getting things done.

 

Well, I'm stumped about what that is in your spark plug hole. If it's got no threads on the inside, but the hole is too small for the plug to just slip in, I really don't know what it could be. Good luck, and let us know how it works out.

 

well I finger tip in new plug, spun it seems like 20 times and never start go in, so is why took a pic, even tried another new plug same.. weird is socket on all 6 taking old ones out . and none had any thread mess up on old plugs. Pouring Rain like Great Flood in Noah's Time So cabin fever lolo…

 

*** Hi Tom** about the endoscope/ borescope , I looked at then on line.. and noted several for Android but I have a Verizon Droid MG by Motorola .and I know it don't do the QR or old style or any for that matter.. Barcodes lolo. But I'd like to get one, may help with car work and around home repair. .But call a local Verizon dealer and those sales girls Do Not Have any Comprehension … worthless and I'll leave it at that lolo.

 

How about a better photo of the insert? Needs to be in focus. Maybe taken too close?

You say there was a spark plug screwed into that hole and engine ran OK? Maybe you best bet is to try to get a spark plug back in securely. Is the insert stripped out completely (will spark plug just slide in all the way, or does it just spin as it rides on the starting edge of the hole and never starts to catch and actually turn in)?

 

**Hi Les the 6 plugs taken out where 1st time been changed since wife bought the Blazer Used had it going on 5th year now. her 2nd car and used ever so often then full use winter for her work travel. it had to sit for 8 months due to prior no reverse and waited till this year tax return to replace tranny. I'm sure you read prior posts of what started this endeavor, of fuel pump issue month ago. So after all that , waiting to finish that issue, decided to do a compression test, then change spark plugs for a complete tune up. Was thinking ok new fuel pump, gas filter, air filter, oil change, new plugs, wires, etc then it be good for a long time.so I gave each outer area of plug thread a spurt of pb blaster, just in case they may need it. As I didn't know how long they were in there. Usual way of plug socket and take each out, and finger tip screw new ones in, then socket snug. so #4 threaded out as usual and as stated before all 6 Used identical . And #4 pass side is a little better view but still behind the shock frame tower, as the #3 side with shock tower with steering shaft in way, and unbolted when doing the plug exchange, and I had a time with getting the steering shaft back on gear box, fine splines PIA, But it must of been some sort of a repair by prior owner. I just no idea of what they used.. Blazer ran great and besides new tires, oil; changes for 1st 2 yrs. 3rd year new radiator, water pump , belt. hoses. plastic tank had a hair line crack, so replaced radiator. then but that pic is best on hand, already put wheels back on and buttoned up car to sit, till can do anything about issue, then the daily Rains and storms and heat on going. will try to get some more pics, but getting this was a Bear, had it on video and stills with hand and cell trying to get pics lolo. thanks Randy..