Hoping someone with more knowledge can get me started so I know if this should be left to the pros. To start, I just didn't an entire power train swap into a Jeep including all wiring from a 93 4x4 blazer 4.3W. Ive also read the transmission stickies here and on other sites, very big help.

The tranny fluid is correct, when hot it drops as it should. In drive I have 1st with an auto shift into 2nd, on what should be the 3rd shift it loses gear and revs up. Letting off the gas at that point will allow it to downshift normally. I have manual in all gears although the 3rd shift result is the same. Unplugged the tranny and I have reverse and forward movement in Drive, which should be 3rd gear? When I get up to about 20 mph I hear a light clicking noise coming from the tranny. This noise is prevalent in the forward manual gears as well.

Thanks in advance for all the help, this swap has been a year long project that I'm ready to start enjoying.

 

could be a shift solenoid, or possibly filter plugged? but if the filter is plugged it would slip and rev before third, and it wouldn't catch when you dropped it back to second. so im guessing its a shift solenoid. dont quote me on that, its just a suggestion to check, im not a transmission pro by any means. if i were you i would call a shop in your area that does transmission rebuilds and they would probably be able to tell you what the problem is.

 

Thanks for the reply. I didn't change the filter when I had the motor out, doing that today anyhow. I borrowed a family members scan tool and played around with it last night. SO many features, now I just need to see what they all mean. Its a nice thing to have being that I wired in the Jeep dash, I have have full function but I don't have the ability to flash or read blink codes.

One other question. Is there anything on the stock gauge cluster/speedo that interacts with the ECM? I'm not using any of the stock cluster at this point. Ill use the info pulled from here and see what I can figure out.

ATSG 4l60e Rebuild Manual

Thanks again, I know this isn't really a blazer so I appreciate the help.

 

i believe that tho only thing on the instrument panel that would interact with the ECM is the warning lights

 

You should do as much troubleshooting as possible but if you unplug the connector and while connector is unplugged, you manually shift 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 and if it still slips from 2-3 I would suspect the 3/4 clutches are bad.

Was this a running vehicle before you did the swap or was it all purchased and untested by yourself?

 

To date I have:

Plugged in a scan tool and confirmed that the ECM is sending the correct shift commands also confirmed with tunerpro. I dropped the pan, changed the filter and replaced the shift solenoids. I also verified that the power to the transmission was constant to rule out ignition switch issues. I checked the TPS via scan tool and multimeter. Traced all the wires to make sure there were no chaffed areas. I confirmed that the VSS is working, multimeter, scan tool and tunerpro. Tunerpro shows that the transmission is getting a shift command and within seconds of that it spins up.

The fluid during the change was nice and red with fine debris in the bottom of the pan. The motor and transmission was in the blazer when I bought it. Since it had spider issues and a leaking intake gasket I was never able to get it up to speed. This is why I wanted to rule out electrical before dropping the transmission. The blazer sat on a hunting lease for 5 years and was never driven very fast. A local guy mentioned that due to this it could have valve body issues keepigng it from shiftin? I realize there are several things that it could be and before dropping it I wanted to rule out the easy ones.

I also noticed that the ECM was a remanufactured or at least had a reman sticker on it. I went to the salvage yard and picked up a 16168625 ECM and DRAC to swap out. The motor runs a lot better now but it still doesn't shift.

I have gone well over budget on this swap and the wife is begining to not be so understanding since this is a third and project vehicle. At this point a $900 rebuild is out of the question so I may attempt to do it on my own if I can find someone local willing to rent me the specialty tools required. I have access to another transmission that runs fine and has a hole in the bell housing.

Thanks,

 

Sorry to hear that. I get my parts from TransmissionPartsUSA. I think it's about $130 for a complete kit. You'll want to buy a filter and 2-4 band at minimum since these are not included in the kit. For a little extra money you can toss some upgrade parts in but it is not necessary. I can generally rebuild these with basic upgrades for just over $300. There is a lot of labor required- cleaning/inspecting parts. There is really not much required as far as special tools. For the most part it's a few pieces of steel, some All-Thread, some junk mail, and 2-3 pieces of exhaust tubing. That's in addition to general hand tools. The only thing special is the $20 pair of transmission snap ring pliars.


I'm still working on some of my techniques as far as seal installation goes. They are pretty touchy and the slightest cut in them results in failure.

 

sound like to me that u got a shift solinoid bad

 

Thanks for the info and the pics of the tools. I've read about people building their own, the pics help a lot. I'm not opposed to having a pro do it but I'm also a DIY type and I'll tear anything up at least twice before I call in the pros. Ill look into the link you sent, somewhere I read about truetectrans. as well. Their kits are about the same price depending on the options. I already have the snap ring pliers. I had to buy them when I swapped out the parts on my transfer case and added a slip yoke.

In regard to the solenoids, I swapped both of them out and still the same issues. Servo seals was the other thing I read about, again I don't pretend to know anything about autos so I'm talking out my ****. I figure if I can do this swap I should be able to at least break a few pieces of the transmission

 

interesting read here 4L60E taking off in 3rd - Page 3

I've got so many bookmarked threads on various forums that I've had to create sub folders for my bookmarks

I may just go ahead and replace the 3-2 solenoid and the internal wire harness. I hate throwing blind fixes at issues but this would most likely be replaced in a rebuild anyhow. I think this time I'll go ahead and have a drain welded into the pan since its the third time I've had it off now.

TZFBird, any chance you can shoot me some specifics on those tools of yours. I can PM you my email addy if need be.

Question, Is it possible that my DRAC needs to be re-calibrated since I changed tires and wheels. I guess I should ask will the change from stock blazer wheels to 35/15s be enough to cause the computer to not shift correctly?