Sorry if this is a repeat but I was typing on the first one and did something to make it go away.
I'm tearing down the engine because 1.) no oil pressure after it warns up, and 2.) when I look in the valve cover hole where one adds oil it is "dry".
Carb is off and all of the nuts are off of the intake and it looks like it should pop off but it dosen't.
Do the studs that the nuts were on have to come out like the ones in the carb?
I put a 5mm six point socket with a 3/8" drive on them and they just "torque" and don't break loose. I have soaled them with oil for days and beat on them with a hammer; they still won't break loose.
If I break them off, with the aluminum intake, it seems to me that I might as well just start looking for a different engine rather than try to drill them out.
I'm also looking at the exhaust manifolds and they appear to be the same type of stud; do they come out the same way?

Roger

 

Do you have the valve covers removed?

I've never completely removed the studs for the intake to get it off. The exhaust is bolts unless somebody (like me) has replaced them in the past.

 

Yes, the valve covers are off.
It looks to me like the studs run through the intake and into the heads. I have attempted to separate the intake, head, and block with various things like a screwdriver and chisel but it just wants to eat into the intake. I've hit it with a hammer and a block of wood as hard as I feel safe doing but still nothing moves.
I guess that the next thing I'll try is to remove the bolts from both heads and see if they will come off that way.
Thanks.
Roger

 

I ended up taking all of the head bolts out and, working from the right rear of the right head, managed to drive (read hammer) a putty knife into where the head gasket was. That opened the head and intake up enough to get a screwdriver in; that was followed by a pickle fork which let me take them off "stuck" together (see photo).
All of that movement "broke loose" the intake from the studs that were actually in the head (and still are) and appered to be coated with "pipe dope" which is why they did not want to come apart.
As to the rest, you can see that some of the main and rod bearings seized on the crank and the cam shows uneven wear. All of the lifters are "frozen solid" but do not seem to show any wear on the ends for some reason.
By the way, when I pulled the oil pan I found quite a bit of at least one of the main bearings stuck to the oil pump sump screen
Now it is up to the machine shop to look over the parts and tell me if it is worth continuing on with this project of if is time to bail out.
Roger

 

I'd suggest finding a 3.4 and swapping it out compared to fixing the 2.8. Short of a v8 swap its the best engine I've ever had in a s-series.