95 Blazer porblems
#1
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Ok, i know its a common problem on these things to have fuel leaks.. Heres the thing that got me up the wall. I took off the the top to see the spider etc. I know its leaking fuel in there as i can see it seating on both sides.. I do not see the req leaking or the lines(all the lines seems wet like)... It as me dumb found, and is driving me nuts. Does any one have any tips to find out whats leaking? The owner be for me replaced the spider, but with a used one............. So i would guess that it might be leaking..
It as a little of a rough ideal, seems to bog down some time on take off, and i used to smell fuel. Its mostly be for it warms up, although its not uncommon for it to do it after warm up. Also fuel smell after long drives, and does suck down some fuel thats for sure, but it gets about 12 miles to a gallon. My buddy gets 17-19 with same truck.. It does run smooth though other then when it bog does, but hit the gas little hard, and it recovers from the bog down.
Also does any one know where to found a wrap around brush guard for a 95 blazer, and not one of those cheap easy to bend ones.. I use it on the farm some time so my fenders take a beating. Although its been fun replacing them, and painting[>:] Also hood scups thought about adding them, but no luck in tracking some down.
Thanks
It as a little of a rough ideal, seems to bog down some time on take off, and i used to smell fuel. Its mostly be for it warms up, although its not uncommon for it to do it after warm up. Also fuel smell after long drives, and does suck down some fuel thats for sure, but it gets about 12 miles to a gallon. My buddy gets 17-19 with same truck.. It does run smooth though other then when it bog does, but hit the gas little hard, and it recovers from the bog down.
Also does any one know where to found a wrap around brush guard for a 95 blazer, and not one of those cheap easy to bend ones.. I use it on the farm some time so my fenders take a beating. Although its been fun replacing them, and painting[>:] Also hood scups thought about adding them, but no luck in tracking some down.
Thanks
#2
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By the way i changed wire, plugs, cap/rotor, fuel filter etc. The scanner don't pick up any codes (my luck..), and the O2 sensor checks out to be good. So I'm about 2 sec from sticking for sell on it if i cant get using gas the correct way.. Gas is to high to have a gas sucker right now.
#3
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I would never replace a CPI unit with a used one. That is just asking for problems.
I would start by checking the fuel pressure, specifically what happens after you turn off the key. Next, I would clean the EGR valve.
Quite possibly, the CPI unit just is not atomizing the fuel properly, causing the engine to run poorly.
I would start by checking the fuel pressure, specifically what happens after you turn off the key. Next, I would clean the EGR valve.
Quite possibly, the CPI unit just is not atomizing the fuel properly, causing the engine to run poorly.
#4
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ORIGINAL: swartlkk
I would never replace a CPI unit with a used one. That is just asking for problems.
I would start by checking the fuel pressure, specifically what happens after you turn off the key. Next, I would clean the EGR valve.
Quite possibly, the CPI unit just is not atomizing the fuel properly, causing the engine to run poorly.
I would never replace a CPI unit with a used one. That is just asking for problems.
I would start by checking the fuel pressure, specifically what happens after you turn off the key. Next, I would clean the EGR valve.
Quite possibly, the CPI unit just is not atomizing the fuel properly, causing the engine to run poorly.
#5
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You need to hook a fuel pressure gauge up to the pressure test port on the back of the intake plenum, near the brake booster. By testing the pressure at the fuel filter, you are eliminating the rest of the fuel system from the equation. Not to mention you really have no idea if it is enough pressure without a gauge...
#6
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ORIGINAL: swartlkk
You need to hook a fuel pressure gauge up to the pressure test port on the back of the intake plenum, near the brake booster. By testing the pressure at the fuel filter, you are eliminating the rest of the fuel system from the equation. Not to mention you really have no idea if it is enough pressure without a gauge...
You need to hook a fuel pressure gauge up to the pressure test port on the back of the intake plenum, near the brake booster. By testing the pressure at the fuel filter, you are eliminating the rest of the fuel system from the equation. Not to mention you really have no idea if it is enough pressure without a gauge...
Edit: by the way I'm also a vol firefighter.[8D] Any how does any one know how much a new spider is (sorry i just call it spider), and where to get it. I looked on autozone site, but cant locate it.
Edit: sorry about all the ' that key is sticking a guess.
#7
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Well I'm going buy the new spider, and the nut kit deal this weekend,and there sure as hell high.. Who ever says Chevy is cheap
I'm hopping that will fix my problem, as I'm almost positive thats the area of it. Any other suggestion of what i might need to replace since I'm at it. I guess I'll break down and spend some cash on the old rig. Then crack another new manifold in the mud like the last 3[:'(]
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#8
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Check out LinderTech.com for the spider/nut-kit/gasket kit they sell for $300. Their kit has an updated FPR that is much more robust.
I would not purchase anything until you have performed the fuel pressure test and/or removed the upper plenum.
I would not purchase anything until you have performed the fuel pressure test and/or removed the upper plenum.
#9
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ORIGINAL: swartlkk
Check out LinderTech.com for the spider/nut-kit/gasket kit they sell for $300. Their kit has an updated FPR that is much more robust.
I would not purchase anything until you have performed the fuel pressure test and/or removed the upper plenum.
Check out LinderTech.com for the spider/nut-kit/gasket kit they sell for $300. Their kit has an updated FPR that is much more robust.
I would not purchase anything until you have performed the fuel pressure test and/or removed the upper plenum.
#10
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If you have fuel pooling in the lower intake, then you have found the problem. If you stated that already, I must have missed it.
The LinderTech kit will give you everything you need at a discount from the general chain stores as well as a more robust design of the FPR.
The LinderTech kit will give you everything you need at a discount from the general chain stores as well as a more robust design of the FPR.