Buildup on the tip of the rotor after only a month could be an indication that the CMP retard is not set properly or could just be crappy aftermarket parts. Hopefully you used AC Delco parts this time around.

We have a nifty How-To in the Tech Article (DIY) section to which I have put together a handy index of the articles to make finding them easier: Tech Article (DIY) Index

 

i cleaned the ERG valve and still have the hesitation/sputtering throughout driving my next step is to clean the MAS, now is there a forum on cleaning the MAS like you had one for the ERG valve? i dont want to damage this part bc it is expensive lol thanks for the help guys
i forgot to mention when pulling my spark plugs there was even wear/carbon on all them they had acdelco plugs in it i read if one side has more carbon then the other then its a intake problem like injectors, or FPR.

 

My truck is doing the same thing except its saying p0306 and I have done a feul pressure test and it is around 35 psi my truck hesitataes all the time also. I put some sea foam in it and it stopped for a day but I know think that the feul pump is my main problem and is probably what killed my last motor not getting feul to the last cylinder man this is aggravating. I have done the same stuff to my blazer feul filter

 

daddysblazer

yeah i know its aggravating i need this vehicle to transport to college... ive looked on all these forums but all seem to point to other things and i cant replace it all lol i really believe my distributor needs to be replaced but i can buy the gear that might being causing the problem cheaper then the whole thing.... ive read too that the spider injector or FPR might be leaking... so i plan to get a peek looking through the air pressure regulator which i read on the "how to" said if you see liquid or extra clean parts you have a leak if its all carbon build up you dont.

 

I also am having a random cylinder misfire. There really are a number of things you need to check first before wasting money on parts. The last part I just replaced was the whole distributor. I would take the advice given and buy the whole thing and not just the gear. Anyway. It did not solve my p0300. I have replaced the cap,rotor, ignition module,plugs,wires,injectors,fuel pump,fuel filter,fuel lines,fuel pressure regulator,CAT,cleaned the EGR,replaced the MAP sensor,cleaned the MAF. I am at a loss but had I come here first and looked for advice instead of listening to the "Mechanics" I would have saved a lot of time and a ton of money. I am still chasing mine but I figured I would tell you to stick it out here a little while and do some tests before just replacing parts.

 

alright tomorrow im going to switch my cap and rotor to acdelco.... even though the autozone guy said "wells" if im not mistaken is what he said makes both acdelco and durralast brands but going to switch anyway. as of right now im still getting p0300 code "misfire" and a p0118 code "engine coolant temp circuit" which he mentioned that this sensor might being setting off the misfire code any advice would help.... plan to do another fuel pressure test tomorrow and find out about this sensor to get replaced. all that my vehicle seems to do is have a slight hesitation/sputtering mostly in the warm up stage and random times throughout driving and the occasionally after being driven the vehicle takes several turns of the key to start so same symptoms not getting worse

 

well come to find out ive gotten rid of the misfire code but still have the p0118 which is the coolant temp sensor... which i did replace since it was cheap and the p0719 code which is something with the converter and brake system which was a new code that popped up but i used orielys autoparts scanner which came up with these two codes and autozones scanner only can up with the misfire at the time and the coolant temp sensor i still have the slight chug/hesitation/miss but ive read that this p0719 is the reason for some people... feeling like the transmission is slipping is what they said and also there cruise control dont work which mine all of a sudden doesnt... soo there problem sounds greatly like mine and there fix is something with the brake switch??? can anyone explain this in clearer terms thanks guys for any help

I also forgot to mention a wire was cut in half near my right front wheel right above the brake caliber, which i believe turned on my ABS light at the time, i put the wires back together with adding new wire to reach, which i plan to replace with a new part. this wire is soft and there where two going to what i believe was a sensor for my ABS would this cause the p0719 code?

 

P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature [ECT] Sensor Circuit High Voltage - likely is a short in the circuit if you are still getting the code after replacing the sensor, provided that you replaced the right sensor. The coolant temperature sensor for the PCM should be located near the thermostat housing. The coolant temperature sending unit for the gauge cluster is located in one of the cylinder heads.

P0719 - Brake Switch 2 Circuit Low Voltage - Check out THIS THREAD.

The P0719 code should not be triggered by a faulty WSS. That would set an ABS system code.

 

i know im a newbie lol sorry for the dumbness i did change the one next to the EGR vavle but only told there was one... so there are two?? correct... and the p0719 code just wanted to make sure the cut wire leading towards my front right brake wasnt the problem for that code bc my ABS light is on i figure it was due to that thanks for the help man

 

The PCM sensor is a two wire sensor while the other sending unit is a single wire sensor.

The ECT sensor has a yellow & black wire. The black wire is the sensor reference that runs back to the PCM on connector 3, pin 4. The yellow wire is sensor return that goes to the PCM on connector 2, pin 23.