well an update on mine ive changed both the coolant sensor and sending unit and thermostat (195) well.... in all this i got my cruise control back lol my blazer runs a litter hotter from 195-210 range to 210-220range took it to autozone and still have the two same code misfire and coolant temp... but when i use oriely's it only showed coolant and something about brakes... "all in previous post"

i had autozone clear it yesterday and it came right back misfire/coolant temp.... and another thing thats happening is long cranking times most the time after warm up had the alt and batt checked alt was good but he said the batt was dropping while it took the time to start.... this wouldnt cause any of these codes would it?

if not its making me believe its the fuel pump.. just assuming it could be fuel pump could it cuz any of these codes?

my whole situation has improved greatly from jerking of the vehicle to not even noticing anything but know there is a very light miss

the only reason i think fuel pump bc my test are weaker then what you guys mention it takes time to reach 60psi but it doesn't leak pressure stays in the position every time even releasing down to 40psi stays at 41psi the whole time

thanks guys for all your advice and taking the time to read and help

 

Have you gone through the wiring for the ECT sensor?

 

i looked at the wireing after hooking up the new ECT sensor and looked good.... if i were to test the connections would i get a voltage reading? and if so what should this number be? im new to testing any electrical to a vehicle so any pointers would help thanks

i also ment to ask the one with one wire coming out of it is called the sending unit correct? and the other the "sensor" which has two wire coming out of it??? not to inclined on how the proper procedure each one works just know how to replace em lol thanks again guys

 

alright i have a curious question... ive been researching on this dexcool coolant and how it creates this sludge well ive got this sludge and ive drained my system many times (with 50/50 that mixes with all antifreezes) still got it ive had to replace my heater core cuz i believe it was do to this dexcool... well my radiator from looking down the opening, looks covered with brown sludge... just thinking would this cuz the p0118 code.... i think all my problems might be this one thing, bc my sensors and thermostat was built up with it... but read fine on my guage which could have been the build up... anyway any comments would be nice and advice i do plan to replace the radiator bc of this stuff but wanted to ask if this could cause the codes of coolant temp and misfire... i believe it would from what ive read but need more info.

..... any suggestions are welcome please

 

to clear some things up... in the begginning had bad miss and bucking... well changed cap rotor plugs and wires all acdelco except wires... (found out one of my wires where burnt) fixed most of my problem... at that point in time had misfire and coolant temp codes which i still have now... (ive heard and read that the coolant temp could set off misfire code???)well replaced two coolant sensors and t-stat now runs hot (stills sputters with acceleration feels like the engine hesitating but hard to tell tranmission shifts good but fluid looks little dark).. i didnt have the hot reading before.. probably due brown gunk in my radiator (also found out dexcool if mixed with alot of air and/or other coolants leads to this) the coolant materials replaced where covered also with this gunkish stuff... plan to change radiator tomorrow..... (just as a note the brake code i got believe was from a misplaced fuse which was my brake light on dash lol which around that time was when i noticed i got my cruise control back) yeah honest mistake if anyone has any questions or advice feel free to ask or give lol just trying to post details so others can benefit from this

 

changed the radiator and BAM! the check engine light is off... hoses and radiator was covered in brown gunk due to dexcool and mixing of coolant not my mistake lol

problems: still have the fluxuating of temp on the temp guage between 210-235 but seems to stay right above 210 on idle
-still have the sputtering prob due to carbon build up in the intake and EGR.

question: i read in some forums that something maybe the fan was not to be easily turned correct me if im wrong. well i grabbed my fan blade and mine turned easily left and right is this a problem?
again thanks for any advice and help

lol counted my chicken before the eggs hatched. well the same code came on driving two miles away i will be changing the sensors again since those were the ones in there after the replacement. i did test the one wire from the plug (from the manifold that goes to the other sensor next to the ERG vavle) there are no breaks in it used a multimeter

 

needing some help please!!
as of sep. 24 i still have the p0118 code and this is what ive figured out so far.
with all the new things replaced as mentioned in the above messages ive replaced the two sensors with brand new ones so i know its not a senor problem ive went through quite a few of them to make sure.

i have test the green wire i believe that was the color from the plug harness(from the mainfold sensor to the t-stat sesnor) the single wire test good useing a multimeter using the buzzer setting.
now the other wire(the wire off the other sensor) which i cant recall the color runs into a roll of wires that are all covered with plastic which seems to run to a black box next to the brake booster... which had the reading of (module cruise control) i might be mistaken but it did say cruise control. is this where runs to?
ive looked at diagrams but cant make sense of them.
(i did notice when i put the new sensor in that my hand on the temp guage was bouncing) then quit after pushing the wiring harnesses together and shaking all the wires, i did clear the code but popped back up.
(i read that there was some kind of fuse then in the computer that could be making this light go off is this true) im no mechanic just learn as i go
i just want to track down this problem thanks for any advice or suggestions open to anything

and just a thought if it was the computer going bad wouldnt i have more problems then just this one code??

_just realized the wires i tested was the green wire off the manifold sensor and the yellow off the t-stat sensor(thought they where the same color) put one probe into each of the harness wires and got a good buzz so what does this mean? i assume all my wires (yellow and green) are good? i still yet to test the black wire(does it run to the big black box with four big plugs plugged into it? i assume thats the pcm) sorry for all the confusion had very little sleep....
and one thing also will my spark plug wires being right next to the manifold sensor wire contribute any faulty readings?

 

i have done everything i know possible.... just got done testing the wires black and yellow from the sensor to the pcm or big black box with a bunch of wires going to it, they tested good meaning no breaks in the wire so i guess my issue is the pcm not reading or sending enough volts to the sensor.... does this mean i need a new pcm?
the wires ran to two different plugs mine being......

the black wire ran to red 3 which is a 32 pin plug that was on top first plug going from left to right

and the yellow was a red plug red 1 first plug from going left to right on the bottom
(this is if you got it off and looking straight at the back of it)
Im in a bind and dont know what to do....... any suggestions are greatly needed thanks

 

Are you sure its the Intake and EGR. If its really bad then yes, but its normal to have some carbon build up in there. Is the Spring on the EGR 'springing'?
If not, Clean it with Sea Foam and a SOFT metal brush, (like the ones you run down the barrel of a gun).

Also, just for fun: make sure the Mass Air Flow is cleaned properly. If you havent done it lately, you may be surprised the difference it makes. Here is the link on how too. https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-a...leaning-40420/ by garry2000blazer

 

ive cleaned both of those using the guides on this site.... my sputtering is still due to the p0118 code which is causing me the problems of
sputtering
long cranks and ruff starts

ive researched alot about this code and problems and still trying to fix it, thought it might have been a broken wire from the sensor but tested good now im down to the voltage the pcm sends to the sensor trying to figure how to test it with a multimeter without having to buy the exspensive scanners