Without coolant, the engine should still start & run. If the engine is running without coolant, it will overheat. If it gets too hot, it might stall and not start until it cools down. If there's coolant is in the engine, and the thermostat sticks open, it will not overheat. There's something going on that doesn't make sense yet, there's another piece of the puzzle somewhere. Did you check the circuits at the ignition switch? Did you check fuel pressure and leakdown?

 

Tested the fuel pressure this morning. Jumps to 60 psi when ignition switched on ( not started). It immediately goes down to 50 and then bleeds down to about 45psi. This tells me that both the injectors are leaking and that the fuel pump needs replacing. Additional thoughts, anyone?

 

60psi is borderline low and the leakdown is excessive. The results of the test are telling you that there are 2 problems, it does not tell you what they are, or where they are. Next step is to check fuel pressure and leakdown at the fuel filter. All fuel flow and pressure must dead end at the fuel pressure tester. When the pump is running, pressure must be 73psi to 108psi and must remain above 55 psi for at least 10 minutes after the pump shuts off. Results of this test will tell if the problems are in the tank or in the plenum.

 

Okay. So I tested the pressure at the filter by the tank and I have 65 psi which jumped down to 50 and then bled to 40, at which point I determined that the pump is indeed bad. Next step is to replace the pump. I'm guessing this won't help with the pressure bleed down, and that I'll also need to replace the injector assembly, too. The guy at O' Reilly's said I should get the "replacement" injector assembly for $300 to save myself from having to re-install the OEM injectors down the road. This new assembly has fatter tubes and the ends, or poppets, each have 2 wires going to them. What has anyone heard about these? Would I be wasting money or gaining reliability by purchasing this?

 

65psi at the filter.... Did all fuel flow and pressure dead end at the fuel pressure tester? In other words, no fuel is allowed past the filter.

With a reading of 65psi, I'm guessing you didn't have it dead end. 65psi is very close to regulated fuel pressure.... that's not what we're looking for with this test.

If it dead ended at the tester, the pump maximum output pressure is far too low AND the leakdown is excessive. In which case, the pump may be the only problem.

EDIT: The injector upgrade eliminates the poppets and relocates the injectors to the intake ports. It's a great upgrade IF you have problems with the existing injectors or regulator.

 

Yes. Dead ended - used a cap nut on the tester fitting. I see what you mean about the bleed down. I tested with a new fuel filter so it was flowing through as well as with a cap nut. With cap nut, I was only able to get about 65 psi that held steady, without - massive bleed down. I'll replace the pump and post back.

 

Anyone ever heard of collapsed rings or a broken cam shaft due to overheating? I'm going to check compression on all cylinders (except no. 3, which is behind the steering rod). I was talking to a mechanic who was in the parts store tonight. He said the 4.3 liters along with some other motors like Subarus, don't hold up well when overheated. The above-mentioned symptoms are the result when over heated. There's also the possibility that if the camshaft breaks, compression will show normal on a few of the cylinders, but nothing on others (front of motor vs. back).

 

Been working on these things since they started making them back in the late 80's, never heard of overheating causing issues like that. Easy way to get at #3 cyl is disconnect the steering shaft at the gear box and move it out of the way... 5 minutes. If the cam breaks, yes, compression would show up as you said. You could remove a rocker arm cover, crank the starter, and watch the rocker arms and confirm that very easily.

 

I would change plugs wires and rotor and cap maybe the cap is worn or cracked. Or the idiot may have put it on 180 off could very well be trying to start with 4 instead of 1 wont start make sure your wires are good and going to the right plug driver side 1,3,5. Pass side is 2,4,6 from front of motor to back most important is the rotor and cap if theyre not in correct firing order youll never get it started one the rotor should be at 8 oclock possition or seven depending on your cap the worst case scenario could be someone took your distributor out and put it in a tooth off or 180 off. Id check rotors possition tdc the engine take cap off and look at possition of the rotor if it lines up with the tab on cap and the cap is labelled 1-6 on top but be careful follow the number to the contact inside cap if thier in same place it should run if not then your distributors not in right. So first make sure rotar and cap are right then make sure wires are right connected. If not distributor pickup coil problem either someone put distributor in a tooth off or pickup coil bad

 

negative get spark plug socket slide on 3 plug then get a box wrench on the back side of the socket comes out like butter no needv for insanity