Last week my Blazer absolutely wouldn't start after a full year of running just fine. I had to crank for over 5 minutes before the engine finally caught. I added a bottle of Heet, just to eliminate the simplest probability of moisture being in the line. (It's been frigid here in Missouri.) Ran 2 more days and then it quits again as I'm trying to leave from work. My co-worker sprayed the starting fluid and it didn't help one bit. I wore my battery down cranking and we put jumper cables on with his truck and my Blazer then fired right up.
I'm fairly certain it's the fuel pump, but I will do some pressure testing first. First a max pressure test at the fuel filter, and then I'll move on to the Schrader valve. My real question is I'm not putting anything but OEM in as far as fuel pumps go. Is there a good online store where I can get one? I looked on Amazon and found an AC Delco pump for $153-and some off name brands for as low as $36.
Any ideas or knowing where I can get an OEM pump for a decent price would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading and Merry CHRISTmas!!!

 

If it doesn't fire up at least for a second or two with starting fluid, it may not be the pump.

 

Electric Fuel Pump Module Assembly Herko Premium High Performance 086GE For Chevrolet GMC Oldsmobile https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EYY1XUS..._KnJwybAKBYD30

I went with this for my 99 blazer, 4dr model with 4wd. Very impressed and 1/4 of the price! Haven't had any issues and I've been running it for a few months.

 

It didn't affect the fuel gauge did it? I've heard the non-OEM pumps can make your gauge be off by almost a 1/4 tank.
I sprayed starting fluid directly down the throttle body and it didn't help one bit. A friend at work claimed his Taurus did the same thing-and it was the fuel pump. I'm going to pull a plug wire and stick a screwdriver in it to make sure I'm even getting fire. But my luck the Blazer will start right up...

 

Nope, my new pump had no effect on the fuel gauge. Everything is working, fuel gauge is accurate too. If you go this route, make sure you get a new lock ring for the pump, more than likely, the old lock ring will be rusted pretty bad.

 

Dont spend the money on a pump untill you check the spark and fuel pressure test

 

Definitely doing some pressure checks before I buy anything newguy. Nwjudge, did you have to change the wiring harness for the fuel pump plug-in? After looking at various pumps I read about one guy that said his came with an 'updated' plug as the OEM one had faults that GM had updated.
Just curious-does the anti-theft system mine has kill any fire going to the coil? I remember right after I bought it last year I was changing the oil and out of the blue the theft or panic alarm went off. Why? No idea except maybe I'd bumped a wire on inside the engine compartment. Funny how I've noticed no performance drop-it just happened last week with the first very cold weather we had. It either starts and runs just fine, or absolutely nothing. Gonna start troubleshooting tomorrow. Thanks!

 

I rented a pressure tester and these are the results:

At the schrader valve I was reading right at 60 psi with pump running. When pump shut off it read 58 psi and after 10 minutes dropped to 55-54 psi. I tried connecting a fitting in the kit that screwed in between the line and back of fuel filter keeping the circuit to the motor intact, but it leaked. Do I need to isolate the fuel pump or is it alright to let it run through to the motor? While the pump was running at the fuel filter it never rose above 60 psi. Is the regulator allowing fuel to pass and giving me a false reading? I would think before the regulator I should be reading the 73-108 psi. The kit didn't allow me to dead head the fuel pump and it leaked anyway so I'm not sure what to do. I read elsewhere that the motor requires pressure above 60 psi to atomize the gas well enough to fire the motor in cold weather.
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From what you describe, it doesn't sound like your fuel pump is the issue. Start with the simple stuff. You stated that when your co-worker jumped your truck it started right up. Not sure how long you were cranking before your battery died. And not sure where you live. But the cold weather is when starting and charging system shows its true colors. To me, if the truck started right up when your co-worker gave you a jump, I'd start with the starting and charging area. Take your battery to an auto parts store and have it load tested. If it doen't have a full charge, ask them to charge it for you unless you have your own charger. But definitely have it load tested. It's all free at any decent auto parts store. Then check all your connections and clean if necessary on your battery, alternator and starter. Make sure your battery terminals are nice an tight. Do you have any corrosion at the battery terminals? Pay special attention to the ground for your battery on the engine block. Some people have solved the problem by cleaning that ground. Take care not to damage or put any force on the wires for the crank position sensor which are right there by the block ground.

 

Take a look at summit Racing.com.They have many parts for your blazer.They have more than just one name brand fuel pumps.Their a very reputable co. to deal with.They usually ship the same day..Free shipping with anything over$100.00