My husband was able to bleed the front brakes, but the rear appears to need a very small tool to be able to bleed them. My brakes get worse and worse each day (since he's never bled the rear end brakes), and when I press firmly they ALMOST go straight to the floor.
If someone could please give me detailed instructions on the "proper" way to bleed the brakes (preferablly both front and rear).
I really don't mean to sound like an idiot, and please forgive that this is such a goofy post, but apparently Chevrolet is alot different than Ford (which is what I typically work on).
Any help would be greatful.

 

Nothing special required. The rear brake cylinders can be a pain to get the bleeder open on though. I typically find the tightest fitting deep socket and loosen it using a 1/4" drive ratchet so I cannot get too much torque on the fitting. I say to use the tightest fitting socket because corrosion may have decreased the hex size so you have to have an assortment of appropriately sized inch and metric 1/4" drive 6 point deep sockets. If possible, find one that you have to tap on lightly. This will at least give a bit of assurance that you do not round off the bleeder screw.

As far as the bleeding procedure, you should start furthest away from the master cylinder and work to the closest. The sequence would be passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, then driver front. Make sure to keep the master cylinder topped off and you should be good to go!

 

So there's no special procedure? what kind of damage could have been done with him only bleeding the front, if any?
I believe the Master Cylinder has a small leak as well since while sitting say at a stop light it slowly depresses toward the floor with no extra pushing on the pedal.
I plan to purchase a new one, but figured we'd try to bleed them first to see how much that helped, and if it would get us through winter - is this a good idea, or should we just replace?

 

You should try bleeding them first. There may be a damaged seal in the master cylinder that is allowing pressure to bleed past.

As far as what damage could occur by only bleeding the front... None really. Just the likelihood that air is still in the rear lines.

 

Thanks for the help. We'll try bleeding them again this weekend, and the right way this time. I'm also going to suggest to him we put the truck on jacks and take all the tires off for better access to the bleeder, that may help also.
If we do find that the Master Cylinder does have a damaged seal can we replace just that, or does the whole thing have to be purchased?