If your gas is reasonable fresh, water in the alcohol shouldn't be a problem and ether (AKA starting fluid) can be bought most anywhere, ACE, any auto parts store and quite possibly the grocery store. And most of it is packaged by the same company so I don't think that one brand is any better than another. I find it easier to grab the can of ether vs a few oz of gasoline.

 

So no leaks, pressure is OK and no water to speak of in gasoline. Again no smoking gun. It's starting on carb cleaner at will, so don't need any ether or non-ethanol gasoline for tests.

For liability purposes, I won't tell you how to check flammability of old gasoline vs new gasoline. But if you choose to try it, be very careful and work outside with very small amounts.

Or you can just jumper the relay, and with the battery charger on drain the tank out the side tap of the pressure tester. Then add maybe 10 gallons to dilute whatever fuel is left in the tank with fresh gas.

 

I just had a thought. You should shake the bottle with the water/gas vigorously for maybe 15 seconds and then let it settle. I know I didn't say to do this. Can you please repeat if you didn't. You can still shake same bottle if you have it.

 

Yes sir, i will shake the bottle but i will also drain the fuel and replace it with 10 gallins of 89 octane. Should I buy an adfitive?

 

I don't think it is necessary to use additive if you are using 10% ethanol (and almost all is anymore, even if not labeled specifically). Also remember I am not yet saying that your fuel is the cause. But it could be. There aren't many things left and It's not a huge unnecessary expenditure.

Compare smells of the fuel when you have a chance. Do you get the same "bite" in your nose when you sniff it? What about odor in general?

Has the vehicle run for some months with the MFI spider setup it now has in it? - I'm not quite clear on that.

 

I did shake the bottle and more water separated out. I do smell a stronger smell and up until I drained the tank, the smell was obnoxious. I'm not concerned with cost at this point I'd rather have peace of mind and assurance that each system is correct.

​​​​​​Before i put new fuel in i need to replace the filler hose at the tank. I noticed it was kinked from the last time I replaced the fuel pump a couple years back.
​​​​​ Cant I take out the torque screws behind the gas cap door to get access? I don't want to drop the tank ever again.

And to answer your question about the MFI...

No i only recently (3 or 4 weeks) changed the injectors. It started with replacing the fuel regulator. I pulled out 3 injector tubes damaging the clips where they wouldnt stay in place. That was in the beginning 2 months ago.

I bought the new MFI and must have dropped it or broke it installing it.

My question for you is, when you expressed concern about the transferring the new injectors into the old body, is there a specific number cylinder that each injector must correlate with? I'm pretty sure I swapped them out to the same position as the old ones but i can't be sure.

"Update" No one carries the fuel filler connection hose. It will be tomorrow before I can get to a salvage yard.

 

They are supposed to go to specific cylinders for the sequential port fuel injection and optimal efficiency, but that would definitely not prevent from starting. We can deal with that once you get it starting. I'll look up the routing for the injector tubes in the meantime.

 

Order and routing in this video starting about 22:00

 

​​​​​​
So I drained the fuel as instructed and replaced with 7 gallons. I didn't get a new fuel filler connection but I did get it reinstalled in the proper way which corrected the kink.

It would not start with the ignition. I was able to start it again using the carb cleaner. Only this time it didn't run as smooth. Also I had to fasten the air inlet tube to the throttle body before it would run. It was like flipping a switch on. I couldn't get it to atart after that.

Ill be ready to undergo your next battery of tests, thank you sir.

 

So are the injectors by themselves laid out side by identical leaving the injection specifics i.e. Timing, order etcup to the fuel control module that the pins connect to?

Or are you saying that each individual injector is specifically made for its designated cylinder?

I paid attention to the order number placing each injector in its respective port. But I can't be positive that I swapped them out one for one.