While driving home from the airport the other day I heard a strange noice while accelerating. I turned down my radio and tried to pass a vehicle. I heard some pinging and the engine shut down. I had it towed to our friends shop and he said the crankshaft snapped. Any one else had an issue with this? What causes this, bad casting? I have decided to go ahead and put a new engine in the truck. I am going to get a Jasper engine. The cost of the engine installed is $3000. I thought this was a little high and wanted some opinions on this. I know that you are supposed to do an inital oil change after 1000 miles. I typically run synthetic but do not want to waste the money on it for flushing the inital break in oil. Any suggestions on that?

 

if your going stock replacement, why not just get a gm dealership engine? I saw sum on ebay the other day, i`ve actually been watching one for my 93 chevy van.. 1795.00 350 motor, shipped to me ,,,, also what year blazer is it you have and what motor?

 

The Jasper engine was cheaper. Same warranty. The blazer is a 99 with a 4.3L, it had 140,000 when it died.

 

I just came across this Really long eBay Link


*EDIT by swartlkk* - fixed long link

 

You shouldn't use synth for break-in use high quality conventional. Synth Oil is bad for break-in!

 

A brand new GM 4.3L crate engine costs $2100 + $150 shipping .A rebuilt Jasper engine installed for $3000 is a much better deal . It takes 30 hours shop time to R&R an engine.At $1000, that is $33.33 per hour compared towhat most Chevrolet or GM dealerships would charge, which is$80 to $90 per hour shop time.TheJasper engine is the better cholce even if it is a rebuilt engine. I have used a local Racing Engine shop to do the machine work and rebuild my engines since 1970. That is becauseI can tell them which parts I want to use.

I prefer a used rebuilt .010"-.010" undersize crank rather than a new crank because they were pre-stressedin another engine.The only crank I ever broke was in a new 1965 327 CI factory short-block I was usingin a 1956 Chevy B/MP NHRA dragcar.After that, I decided thatI would never buy a new crate engine or a new crank again.

In 1966, my partner and I were building a Woody Gilmore chassis, SBC Chevy powered Jr. Fuel rear engine dragster and we were going to purchase a new 327 CI cast iron crank and send it to Crankshaft Companyand get them to stroke it for a355 CI engine for the Jr. Fuel class engine.That was a few months before thefactory forged 350 CIcranks wereavailable from GM.Crankshaft Company (CSC) told us to send aUSED327 CI crank because even if they inspected a new 327 CIcrank, they will not stroke itand guarantee it. The told us that there may be hidden casting flaws that magnafluxing cannot detect. A used crank is pre-tested.

 

Thanks for the reply Duntov. After doing a little research, I found that it was not a bad deal. He said he would only charge me for 11 hrs shop time. Out the door with all the bs and taxes should put me right around $3500.

*Combining Consecutive Posts*

Thanks for the input dtetreau. Do you know why it is bad for break in? Just wondering.


*EDIT by swartlkk* - Please use the EDIT feature to add additional information to your post if another member has yet to reply. When replying to multiple people in a post, please do so with one post, not multiples. Consecutive posting is against forum rules. Please feel free to PM me to discuss further. Thanks!

 

Thanks for the input dtetreau. Do you know why it is bad for break in? Just wondering.

 

Synthetic oil doesn't allow the wear-in that rings and things need to properly seat and seal.

 

my jasper installed was 5200 OTD.. but i got the Jasper install kit as well.. wish it was only 3000... my long block alone was 2600.00.. i did get the "performane" model.. but without a pcm tune its not really notice able.. just sounds mean ( i have bigger ported heads).

and NEVER you synthetic oils for break ins.. my break in period was 500 than i got another basic oil change, than after 3,000 (3500 all together) i went to full synthetic...