Distributor Cap and Rotor Troubles
I have discovered I have a p1345 engine code. I cleared it and started the car again and it turned on right away. Certain this is from my cap and rotor job, what is causing this? I see most with p1345 have a misaligned distributor but how did this happen? I did not mess with the distributor.
I made sure to give the cam sensor a few wiggles and it was plugged in. I’m not sure about thr cam sensor wheel. I’ll take a look under the rotor tomorrow and see if it is damaged
PS there in no such thing as a cam/crank relearn. Only a crank sensor relearn which will never complete with a P1345 code being set, but has nothing to do with causing it.
WIth broken housing screw hole for cap just cut your losses, get another distributor, and drop it in correctly. Lots of cheap Chinese ones out there. I have one myself because PO broke the factory housing cap screw hole on one side.
search "Chevy V6 Distributor" on Amazon.
These are all metal so that doesn't happen again.
WIth broken housing screw hole for cap just cut your losses, get another distributor, and drop it in correctly. Lots of cheap Chinese ones out there. I have one myself because PO broke the factory housing cap screw hole on one side.
search "Chevy V6 Distributor" on Amazon.
These are all metal so that doesn't happen again.
Last edited by LesMyer; Nov 13, 2025 at 04:54 PM.
This might not mean anything but just thought I’d bring it up. The code only comes up on cold starts. At 7:30am I will start the car clear the code, drive to school and it won’t come up. I even turn my car off once I got there and restarted it, gave it some gas and the code didn’t come on. At 3pm its the same thing; start it and code comes on, but I can clear it and restart the car at home and it won’t come on.
Replaced Distributor. Code is gone and the car runs better. Must’ve been the combination of a broken screw and a broken mount on the old distributor that was throwing the code. Had to do some improvisation to get the bolt out, had a broken 10mm wrench so welded it onto a metal ruler at a 90 degree angle to get at the bolt.
Replaced Distributor. Code is gone and the car runs better. Must’ve been the combination of a broken screw and a broken mount on the old distributor that was throwing the code. Had to do some improvisation to get the bolt out, had a broken 10mm wrench so welded it onto a metal ruler at a 90 degree angle to get at the bolt.
Did you get a new OEM style distributor?
Yes, it also had metal instead of hard rubber for the platform where the rotor and cap get attatched so will not have to worry about the screw brackets breaking.
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