Well what can the problem be? And what do I need to do to check it?

 

Pull the dipstick to see if its covered in gasoline. I bet if fuel is coming out of the valve cover your crankcase is full of fuel. you have some major issues if fuel is coming out of the valve cover.
If the crankcase is full of fuel that is bad news for engine bearing if you keep turning it over and dont get it out of there.

If what i am thinking is correct,
That the pressure regulator you were messing with is leaking fuel directly into the intake which is filling the cylinders up and leaking into the crankcase.
The engine wont turn over right now because the cylinders are full of fuel.

 

That's a good observation. When I put in the FPR, I checked the lines and FPR with the plenum off and turning on the key. No leaks,

 

Ok, well if you have fuel coming out of a valve cover as you say then fuel is getting into the head/crankcase somehow.

To reiterate my previous questions.
Have you tried to turn the engine by hand (not the starter)? does it turn free?
Have you pulled the dipstick to see it it smells of fuel?
Have you pulled the spark plugs to see if there is anything in the cylinders?
You need to check all of this or you are going to be looking at another bad engine.
If there is fuel in the oil that is very bad. Fuel will strip the oil away from bearing and toast that engine in a short amount of time.

 

Ok I'm going to check these things right now!! Thanks ChuckNTruck !

Ok I drained the oil and it had gas in it, my fuel pressure line wasn't clipped on all the way, so I fixed it. I replaced the oil and oil filter and she fired right up. Now... At 1,000 rpm it will sputter/misfire and when I'm driving, I'll come to a stop and it'll either want to stall or stall on me if I'm not pressing the gas a little. When it does stall, it won't fire back up again, until I try starting fluid a few times, holding the gas pedal down... I'm guessing my spark plugs are fouled out from the fuel and I'm getting no spark, so I'm going to replace them today.

Now, as for the fan being on backwards... When I took it off and turned it around, the blades hit my AC pully right where the belt sits. How big (in inches) of a flex fan spacer do I need to make it right?

 

Cool, im glad you figured out where the gas was coming from.
Keep rechecking that oil for fuel smell for a bit. it might take a couple oil changes to get all of the fuel out of the crankcase. Fuel dilution is a very bad thing for the bearings in the engine.

As for the stalling, before you buy new plugs i would pull them and see what they look like so you dont waste money on new ones if they arent needed..
Did you ever get the fuel pressure issue figured out? I would try to recheck your fuel pressure to see if maybe your fuel pump is on its way out.

For the flex fan spacer, you will either have to buy a kit the comes with multiple spacers or just take a ruler or tape measure and check. Just make sure its not too close to the radiator. Those types of fans are designed to flex and sometimes completely flatten out at high RPMs. Thats whys its so bad thats its backwards. right now its bending backwards at higher RPM and flexing towards your radiator.
It would be best if you are able to find a factory fan with a clutch and the correct fan shroud at a junkyard. But i dont know how much they charge for something like that.

 

The skip and no start without starting fluid is from a leaking injector still

 

Right, like the skip is the faulty injector not giving gas to it's cylinder?

Changed plugs, still no start. I'm guessing it's the IAC, I think I got gas on the connector fooling with those fuel lines. When I was done, I had no check engine light, when I drove it, the IAC would whistle when I pressed the gas pedal. Now it doesn't whistle and I have a check engine light and it won't start up. Think it's fried or gunked up with fuel residue? Can I clean it with connector cleaner or should I replace the IAC?

Heres the symtoms...

Signs and Symptoms of a Bad Idle Air Control Sensor

No-Start Condition :

IAC-related no-start conditions usually only occur on older vehicles with fully electronic (drive-by-wire, DBW) throttles. DBW systems (like those used on the Chevrolet Corvette and Toyota Prius) use a switch on the gas pedal to control a servo on the TB. Newer drive-by-wire cars don't have an IAC, but older DBW-equipped models depend entirely on the IAC just to start.

Start and Stall :

Most IAC failures manifest themselves as a start-and-stall condition. Generally speaking, the engine will catch and run for a second or two, stutter and die. IAC-related start-and-stop conditions can be easily differentiated from fuel-related issues; during IAC-related stalling, applying throttle in light pulses may prolong engine failure, but will not prevent it. Applying throttle while facing fuel-related failure will result in immediate stalling.

Deceleration Failure :

When rapidly decelerating, the driver lifts his foot from the throttle pedal and applies the brake. Once the driver's foot is clear of the throttle, the engine's TB valve completely shuts. In the case of a malfunctioning IAC, rapidly shutting the throttle pedal will starve the engine of air, resulting in a stall either while decelerating or after coming to a stop.

Intermittent Stalling :

An intermittent stalling condition is one in which the vehicle might start fine, act as though it's going to die, idle smoothly and then die completely. Alternatively, the vehicle may run fine most of the time, but stall periodically and then restart with a bit of difficulty. Intermittent stalling almost always indicates a dirty or clogged IAC.

...these are my symptoms.

 

Ok I replaced the IAC and MAP sensors... Still no start. Starting to lean towards plugged injectors or bad spider. How can I unplug them? Or can I just replace the poppets? Also, I mix matched 2 poppets and drove it 4 miles til I shut it off, now cranks no start...