Thank you.
That explains eventually, why AC does not work.

So I have to Take Off the Air intake Manifold to Check or replace the FPR.

I still hope it comes from a fuel pump fault. When giving 12V and ground directly to the pump, it doesn't flow Out constantly. But I think it should

 

Well, some news for all helped me in this case.

I took the fuel pump out of tank.

Gave it 12V and mass directly from battery... it exctracts fuel, but unconsistantyl.

Then I took the second one I have, also used, but I knew it was okay when build out of the car. 12V and mass and... voila.. it extract fuel perfect and consistant.
Unfortunately there are the connecting point to fuel lines damaged.

I could make 1 out of 2.-.. but I decided to order a new one. Rockauto and FedEx.. regularly 2-3 days I'll keep you informed.

 

So, for testing, I build one out of 2 and put it in.
Now it tries to start again, but can't, as it's not getting enough fuel or too less revolutions..

I charge the battery until tomorrow and will check spar plugs after trying 10 times starting now. At least there is some fuel smell now at the end of the exhaust pipe now. So he's at least injecting again.

Maybe a too old fuel filter could cause the main problem? Could it be possible that the fuel pump died, after working against the anti-pressure of a blocked fuel filter? Or is this, technically, non-sense.

 

So,

first, I have to excuse myself.
It turned out that it was NOT the IAC I changed the last days.

I dismounted it today and I could see that it is very dirty, stucked and absolutely NOT moveable.

Can a damaged / died IAC cause the engine not to start? I will test the one from my project car, cause the engine build in there is running.

Just want to understand the technically parts of this engine. Other cars I know will start with a dead IAC.

Greets.

Tobias

 

Hey guys,

Tested second IAC now.. no effort. Engine still does not run.

Dismounted air intake manifold. Reconnected fuel lines to injection unit.

Get starter running, it's only injecting on cylinders 2,3 and 4. 1,5 and 6 are dead. But in the wire connection it's 12V and tacted mass in each 6 cylinders while running the starter.

So, I will dismount the manifold and injection unit in the second car and will mount it tomorrow after cleaning all parts I will remount.

Fuel pressure is 4,3 bar / 62PSI just before getting into injection unit.

Will keep you informed and thanks to all you guys giving me input. Really Like this Forum :-)

Greets,

Tobias

 

Some good, and some bad news.

Changed the injection unit today. I checked that it is injecting all 6 cylinders before remounting air intake manifold.
It was just from cylinders 2-6.. number 1 dead - no fuel. I changed injector from other unit -- then.. clyinder 1 ok - got fuel -.. but cylinder 2 dry.-.. changed another injector.. now.- cylinder 1 and 2 dry.. although 1 was getting fuel before.

On the plug of the injection unit I can check: 12V = 6times.. Ground = 6times.
So wires should be ok.

I putted all together again just to see if it will start again.. and it did.. So.. injection unit was the bad part.

But why is number 1 and 2 not working now. although the other engine was running smooth on all 6?

Any recommondation? Maybe wire harness?


Please help.. I don't know any more to check. :-( But I also don't want to give up this car.

 

Okay,

sometimes it is just simple. Damn fu**ing fuel filter.
Replaced it and now the car is running on all 6 just smooth as before.

What I don't understand, I replaced it 1,5 years ago. Just drove 7500 miles since then.

But, the main thing is. The car is running again, and I learned something about the engine while putting air intake manifold down

Greets,
Tobias

 

I had a similar problem with one of the spark plugs, as it turned out. Should also be checked. Because just in 4.3 vortec this is a straightforward problem, which is why the engine starts to noticeably stall. Therefore, you need to make sure that if you take candles, then that they really fit this model, otherwise you can simply "stall" in the middle of the road, I already know from my own experience when I reached this point. Therefore, you should be careful and, of course, the best option would be to choose specially spark plugs for 4.3 vortec https://carfluidsexpert.com/best-spa...or-4-3-vortec/ and from these options you should take for yourself, if you decide to change, of course. For example, I took an NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug for my car, since it was the most suitable candidate for its characteristics. But here already see for yourself, I would replace it for prevention, of course. Hope I can help someone.

 

a buddy of mine had a 94 s10 blazer with the cpi 4.3. he had frequent problems with the, then, new 'linear egr valve' he removed and cleaned it a few times, and ultimately replaced it.. (then) very expensive to do so.