Well the engine gave out on me a few months ago and the blazer has been parked. I ran across a nice donor vehicle that had been wrecked with a seemingly good engine in it for a great deal.

I did manage to get the engine out of the donor vehicle. I loosely call it success because I didnt care about the donor vehicle so it now looks like it was wrecked with a steam shovel. Lol

Reading here I learned a lot of what to do and through error and trial I learned alot of what not to do. Lol more importantly what not to do to the vehicle I hope to keep and drive again. Lol

i learned on here the best was to do this is to lift the body. Ok, got an impact, easy peazy. that sounded like a good idea until 4 of the mount bolts started spinning and i couldn't see the other side to hold the nut. So decided that would just make it easier if they'd come out but not nessecary so I continued on with the mission of removal. Later to learn that yea they needed to come out. But I was already committed so with a lot of force, total disregard to everything. All I really need is the engine block. I squeezed the square peg through the triangular hole. Lol no way I'm doing that to the driver blazer and probably would be less wise than doing it on the donor. More importantly the only way hat I see that I'll ever get one put back in is with the body raised.

I plan to tackle the removal of the bad engine in the good blazer later this week and my question is; everyone here says to soak the body mounts in PBblaster. So I'd like to put them on the same twice daily dose of PBblaster antibiotics for this week before the procedure; as I already have exhaust nuts and few other hardware on same twice daily regimen. If I cant get to the threads of the body mount bolts. How do you go about soaking them?

Thanks in advance guys. Might seem like a stupid question but my brain is fried from figuring out how to get the other one out. Lol

 

Ive never raised the body to remove the engine, for the bell housing bolts pull the dist and trans mount and cross member and lower the end of the trans - reach up with long ext and if needed a wobble socket, I have also jacked the trans tail shaft to the floor pan and removed them from the top .....

 

I didnt have any trouble getting the bolts. I jacked the transfer case up until it hit the floor. Was able to reach all of them with extensions and wobbles except the top 2, those I used a wrench to break them free then my fingers to remove.

Where I ran in to trouble was the actual extraction. Getting the oil pan over the front differential. I squeezed it through by pushing on the oil pan with a jack as I lifted and it finally came out doing summer salts and barrel rolls. It was literally upside down when it came out. There is no way I'd ever get one put in and lined up that way. I started to lower the front diff but quickly realized that was going to be an all day job in its self to get the 4 bolts out. Retrospect I think the guys on here and rest of the internet are on to something. Raising the body 6" seems like the easiest method to do the entire procedure.

 

Well here is my solution I came up with. Since i had the donor, I decided to do some exploratory surgery and find the top of the bolts. Taking lots of measurements and a step down bit, it didnt take long for me to find all of them. I then sketched a diagram on a piece of cardboard and transferred that to the keeper. I then drilled 7/16" hole above each bolt and am able to start soaking the threads.

To seal it back up later I have several options in mind.
1. I could simply weld them up and spray some.paint on top. But that would leave the inside exposed and may rust 15 years from now. Probably wont be my problem anymore by then but why do something temporary?

Use paint marker to cover exposed edge of metal to prevent rust.

Then either
1. metal push in plugs
2. Rubber grommet style plugs
3. Fill it with cold steel epoxy.

I'm probably doing #3 because I have it on hand and dont have to try to buy the right size plug.

I'll try to draw a detailed diagram / blueprint of where I found the tops of the bolts to help get others in the ballpark. Helpful for installing body lifts as well.

 

Sorry you are having so much trouble - the last one I did I had the trans supported by my trans jack. lowered it some to clear fire wall a bit and rolled trans back.
I attached cherry picker rearward past center so front of engine tipped forward some, pan slid right out past every thing including heater box and brake booster and it worked the same during installation .....

 

As for an alternative rust remover, I had some good success on my rear shackle bolts/nuts with the CRC Freeze Off. It is designed to get the bolt and nut really cold and contract so that the corrosion cracks and then the penetrant can get in. It is also a lot less messy than the PB Blaster.

 

Wish I'd came back here earlier and checked in. I'll see if I can find some of that locally and give it a try tomorrow.

I've been soaking the bolts with PB daily for 11 days and started tearing in to it late this evening. So far they have all came out but one. Wont say they came out as easily as I was naively hoping. Lol but all have came out so far. The one that didnt, Well It twisted its self in two. Wasnt much metal left of that one. Now I get to cut a hole in the floor and try to get the remains out of the threads. Im really excited about that! Lol but now after 11 days of spraying the floorboards, the inside smells like PB and it's in the carpet padding. I'll never get that smell out. Glad I'm the only one that rides in it. Lol

I've still got the exhaust bolts to go and maybe all the manifold bolts. That might be a good time to try the CRC freeze. I havent been soaking the manifold bolts because I was planning to use the manifolds that came off the donor vehicle. I didnt realize they were different. Thanks for the tip. If I find it then 'll let you know how it works for me.

 

Thanks for the tip. On the donor vehicle I did have to lower the front of the trans until transfer case was hitting floor board. It still wouldn't clear enough on that particular vehicle. But that one had been wrecked (T-boned) and got every panel on drivers side front to back and some how destroyed rear hatch. Looks like they may have got spun around and hit a telephone pole or tree backward pretty good. So it may have shoved the body forward and or maybe the side impact deformed the firewall slightly. just a 1/4" or so, just enough to change things and ruin that day for me. Lol

 

Anyone kmow what this little guy is? It is locates on passenger side, under the radiator, next to oil filter. Has vaccum lines that run up to something on the intake (shown on pic 3). One large tube that is cut at an angle. (Shown in pic 2.) And another tube that goes to a "T" then goes to the front of each exhaist manifold.
____________________________________


Same device showing the cut tube.

________________________________


Do-dad that the vaccum line runs to from the thing-a-ma-jigger under rhe radiator. It's the one with the hard plastic line going to valve cover to PVC valve. The vaccum line with the check valve in it is the one that runs down to the thing-a-ma-jigger under the radiator.

_________________________________

Or actually it probably runs from the do-dad to the thing-a-ma-jigger. Ppssiabbly powers thing-a-ma-jigger by vaccum? Im.not sure what the thing-a-ma-jigger is or what its doing.

 

Air injection pump?