A few days ago I started to notice what sounded like an exhaust leak from what i thought was from my manifold? Well I noticed that an elbow I had put on these 2 tubes a few weeks ago, melted through? [it was radiator tubing so it could withstand heat] and my wiring harness was right on that tube, so when it melted, the wiring harness went through to the tube, and melted the cover off the harness and some plastic coverings of the wires... Went through, pulled every wire separately off one another that got melted, wrapped it with electrical tape, and got that taken care of.. My question is, what exactly are these tubes? We took part of the tube that melted and put it over the black tube, and it seemed to quiet down the thump noise, the other tube has no pressure or nothing.. Dont know what either are, nor what to put on it, to connect the two? Dont want it to remelt. Any ideas as to what it is or what should be used to connect the two so it wont melt?

BTW: its right above the lower radiator hose and under the alternator

 

If you fix the real problem, the rubber won't burn out. The real problem is a leaking check valve (the part with the stamped hex into it that your one finger is near).

 

Alright, how exactly does that get replaced then? And where does it run to? the air that comes from it seems quite, hot lol before i put an actual 90 elbow on it, there was a straight piece of tube on it, kinked to a 90

 

See that hex. You put a wrench on it. Just behind the check valve you will find another hex where you will put another wrench. Lefty loosey and off it comes (if you're lucky). Install the new check valve and then the new rubber hose and forget about it.

The only thing that the hose is supposed to see is fresh air from the air pump.. When the check valve fails, it allows hot exhaust gases to get in there and burn it up.

 

The check valve , like Swartlkk said is the black one which connects to the stainless tube ,that runs down under the crank pulley where it tees up with the drivers side tube and its check valve , and goes to the smog pump mounted under the radiator towards the pass side. In my opinion those check valves will get hotter than the radiator hose is rated for . I would either go to a salvage yard and find a couple that are in decent shape , not cracked or burned . Usually you would only need to bring some pliers for the factory clamps. Or I would go to the dealership for new ones.

 

Ahhhh cool beans. Now next question? Would it be safe to go with a junk yard valve? [my brother can get me it for free since he tears em apart] or should I go new with it? Autozone has no idea what im talking bout, Oreillys and NAPA is special order

 

I wouldn't recommend using radiator hose to begin with either. Using the right parts is always the preferred method of repair.

You could try a junkyard valve so long as the rubber was also intact and not cracked on the same check valve it is likely to be ok.

 

alright! Thank you for your quick response! This is why I love this forum! when i had my tbird, tccoa wasnt ever this helpful or quick

 

Alright, I've come to a brick wall...

I went to 3 different junk yards, and looked into about 50+ Blazers, and out of those Blazers, not a single one had this check valve? Or atleast in the location mine is? Anyone have a diagram of where the default location is, or are they only applied for certain states due to emissions laws? Was hoping to find it but no go on it. Oreilleys can get me the part but they want $40 but its special order and would take a week, and junk yards are saying itd be $10 but i cant find it lol any ideas swart?

 

Not certain on the year, but I think it's on 1999 and newer only. Guaranteed it's not on 1998 and older