So I did a rebuild on a 4.3 out of a '97 for my '96 blazer
got everything together fired it up and missed and shook real bad
after some messing with distributor and Im positive i set it to TDC on number according to piston position and dampener markings
now it runs so bad it wont pull its self, even when punching to full throttle it just barely revs up to where it should
I had it running decent but you could tell it was still not in time
Ive read a million different things and messed with the distributor more than i wanna admit.....
i did use the old ECM with a new crank & cam sensor so do I need to do the relearn procedure?
could that be the source of my issues?
it seemed to run better when i didnt have it set to TDC and 1 tooth advanced. (so was i"manually advancing it? or just throwing the fire order way off?)
i could try to undo what i did to get it to a shop, but then id have to change it back there so they could set it to "relearn"
i know im going to be IRATE if i put that dam crank sensor wheel on backwards.....
Im running low on ideas of what to do here....
I know before i set it for the last time that then scanner i was using was telling me the timing advance for cylinder 1 was 17 degrees....
the sound it makes when i give it gas is hard to describe, but kinda like its bogging down as in it got a "hollow" sound from exhaust. i could actually upload a video of it if that would help
at them moment though it really struggles to start and wont idle........

 

ok so i got it down to a shop
hooked it up and did all that jazz
now its still got a miss and scanner said cyc 4
i pulled plug and grounded it, sparked on crank
aside from pulling the VC how can i tell if a valve is stuck or if injector is bad?

 

Is the SES light on? If so what code(s). If not on, why isn't it on if you have a miss. Relearn or lack there of will not cause an actual felt misfire. Ignition timing is not based on distributor position, it is based on the crank sensor. However, distributor rotor must point to the right terminal at the right time to pass the spark. Rotor position is measured as Cam Sensor Retard which should be 0 +/- 2 degrees. Distributor is installed with engine on TDC #1 and the rotor pointing to the #6 cast in the cap mounting surface. Factory distributor hold down locks the distributor in place so it cannot be turned. Leaky valves are tested using a compression gauge. Individual injectors are not quite as easily diagnosed. Answer my questions and I will help.

 

ya the light was on, i fired it up without the plug in and no fuel was spat out.....
took the valve cover off cause a friend said it could be loose rocker or bent pushrod, those all looked good
then i drove it to autozone and they said its the crank position sensor
i have another one from the old engine im going to try out tonight see if it goes away
has anyone actually put the wheel on crank for sensor backwards before? im worried if i put it on backwards......
ive also read some stuff about needing shims with a new sensor?

 

Codes please

 

ill have to get the reader again tomorrow, they just said it was telling them misfire on cylinder 4 at the shop
and autozone said its crank sensor
im going to mess with it later on and see if maybe its not in right?


update : swapped CKP sensors and still the same miss.... i honestly cant remember my spider injectors being so loud????
i drove it around a bit seeing if it would change
no dice
but i did notice when i got back the exhaust/cat was "tinging" alot more than usual???
im going to double check if im getting fuel to that cyclinder or not

 

Stop expecting Autozone to diagnose your vehicle with their code reader. Codes do not tell you what part is bad. They only give you a starting point for diagnostics per factory diagnostic charts, which are included on this web site. You may or may not need information specific to your year of vehicle.

Better get a capable scanner if you want to work on a Blazer. If you have Android, for a 1996 Blazer I recommend Dash Command from google Play + in-app purchase of GM PIDs for your vehicle + BAFX Bluetoth OBD2 adapter as sold on Amazon. $10 + $10 + $23. If you have i-Phone, I recommend the same app (for iOS) but you will need a BAFX WiFi OBD2 adapter as sold on Amazon. This will get you all the GM Powertrain PIDs that you will need to effectively work on your Blazer, but won't do a crank sensor relearn (that takes much more expensive software).

 

trust me i have very little faith in auto zone lol. i just went there for my test drive, i was looking at getting a scanner name BlueDriver any opinions about that one? the one im borrowing is a Autel Maxidas DS708
I've worked on cars for years, but never bought a scan tool, but after watching a few videos about them I wish I had one that would show me all the data I can get lol.
If I can get the scanner tonight it will be at about 10pm server time i think, or in about 4hrs when I will post again the codes

 

From the Blue Driver web site below - note the last line. May work, or it may not work for enhanced PIDs (especially on a 1996 Blazer). I have no Idea. Sounds like they have an incomplete set of enhanced PIDs. I do know that Dash Command with the add-in PIDs does work, and Blue Driver seems a bit pricier than Dash Command. Your choice. If you do get Blue driver, and it does the enhanced PID "Cam Sensor Retard" or "CMPRET" on your Blazer be sure to let us know. That is my gold standard for the apps when working on these Blazers. Not many apps will do it, especially on a 1996.

Reading/clearing codes, pretty much anything will do that - so you're OK with the Autel for that.
---------------------------

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Its telling me P1345
Crankshaft & Camshaft correlation
I assume this is cause i have not done a relearn, nor can i figure out how on this scanner
hopefully i take it to the shop tomorrow and they can do the relearn and that will clear the code and then my misfire will stop......
I pulled the entire spider injectors off tonight, #4 was pretty dirty but after cleaning and putting it all back together still the exact same...