Fuel Pump and gas gauge
My '98 4x4 Blazer quit while 100 miles from home. Went from doing 70mph on the interstate to dead alongside the road.
Crank but no firing at all. No mechanical noises, coolant in the oil or any other "serious" problem, but I couldn't hear any fuel pump noise when operating the ignition, and the fuel gauge registers way above full.
I'm thinking that because the fuel level sensor and the fuel pump are in the same unit, they would share the same wiring harness/connector?...so both going would point to a connector, wire or ground problem?
Is that a reasonable guess?
Thanks.
Crank but no firing at all. No mechanical noises, coolant in the oil or any other "serious" problem, but I couldn't hear any fuel pump noise when operating the ignition, and the fuel gauge registers way above full.
I'm thinking that because the fuel level sensor and the fuel pump are in the same unit, they would share the same wiring harness/connector?...so both going would point to a connector, wire or ground problem?
Is that a reasonable guess?
Thanks.
I cycled the pump, and depressed the test port schrader and got no fuel at all. When I say "cycled the pump", that's to say I turned the ignition "on" and left it there while depressing the valve. If the pump was working, wouldn't I get a spray of fuel?
If there is no pressure at the shrader after key on then yes you have a problem. You can start by checking the ECM B fuse 20A In the UHBEC. If thats good then you can check for power and ground at the fuel pump connector before condeming the pump If your working alone you may have to hot wire the pump.
George
George
If it has a fuel pump prime terminal in the fuse box, try applying 12V+ to that. If it runs that way, you can focus on the fuse and relay.
Also, try kicking the bottom of the fuel tank (or hitting it with a rubber mallet if you can't reach under). I've started many "dead" fuel pumps that way (though not usually when they quit going down the road). It's far from a permanent fix, but it's always easier to drive them into the shop than it is to push them.
Also, try kicking the bottom of the fuel tank (or hitting it with a rubber mallet if you can't reach under). I've started many "dead" fuel pumps that way (though not usually when they quit going down the road). It's far from a permanent fix, but it's always easier to drive them into the shop than it is to push them.
If it has a fuel pump prime terminal in the fuse box, try applying 12V+ to that. If it runs that way, you can focus on the fuse and relay.
Also, try kicking the bottom of the fuel tank (or hitting it with a rubber mallet if you can't reach under). I've started many "dead" fuel pumps that way (though not usually when they quit going down the road). It's far from a permanent fix, but it's always easier to drive them into the shop than it is to push them.
Also, try kicking the bottom of the fuel tank (or hitting it with a rubber mallet if you can't reach under). I've started many "dead" fuel pumps that way (though not usually when they quit going down the road). It's far from a permanent fix, but it's always easier to drive them into the shop than it is to push them.
George
Thanks for the suggestions.
Another clue...my scanner won't connect. I've used it many times before with no problem.
The battery is new and charged. Cables are tight. OBD connector is good. Fuses are ok.
Any ideas?
Where should I start?
Another clue...my scanner won't connect. I've used it many times before with no problem.
The battery is new and charged. Cables are tight. OBD connector is good. Fuses are ok.
Any ideas?
Where should I start?
George
Well...doing what I should have done on the side of the road, I pulled and checked every fuse, not just those associated with the fuel pump, and #10 was blown. Replaced it, and the fuel pump, gauge and OBD port work, and it starts now.
But...why did it blow that fuse?
But...why did it blow that fuse?



