i have a 98 blazer with 200,000 miles on it. i just got it and changed the oil using 10w-30, and a fram filter. Since then i've heard bad things about FRAM and have an awful lifter tick. Was just wondering if i should change to a thicker oil or thinner oil and what weight i should use. I live in southeast KY, we have hot humid summers and cold snowy winters. I know temperatures can factor in what weight oil to use.

 

I personally have never had any problems with fram, though some people do. Keep in mind when a oil filter company says (it meets OE specs) all that means is the diameter of the threads and seal are the correct size and shape. This doesn't mean they will filter the same or better then the OE or some higher grade filters. For the lifter first check your oil and if it's low that would be why. For gauging the right weight of oil is almost pure speculation to each car as they age. Some need thicker oils sooner in their life because of operating conditions. I put 10w-40 in my 94 blazer with an stp additive and it kept oil pressure nicely, if I put 10w-30 and oil treatment it was barely in the acceptable range.

 

As far as the type of oil you need to use 10-30 works from 0-100deg temps so it's a good all around thickness. With your noise I would suggest maybe using a quart of Resolin additive to help with it. You will have to just plan on putting it in at every oil change but if it gets rid or helps with the noise then it would be worth it I would think. And with the filter I would recommend using a Wix(aka NAPA Gold) or a Mobile 1. I hope this might help

 

I wouldn't worry so much about the FRAM filter, get another brand if it bothers you that much. As far as the oil, I've made several replies about this problem. Your lifters are making a slight ticking noise at start up and it goes away after warm-up. I have the same problem but to get rid of it I only use Castrol 30 weight oil. No need for additives or other junk, just straight 30 weight oil. Not too many places carry it so you may have to get it at autozone or advanced. As long as you strictly use 30 weight you will never have the ticking noise again. Its thick oil but it keeps everything lubricated. I've been running it for over 50K miles with no problems. Anytime I've put regular 10w-30 the ticking always comes back. Soon as I change it out to 30 weight the ticking is gone. Give it a try, theres nothing to lose other than that annoying ticking/squeeking noise.

 

I can't agree with using straight 30W in a modern engine. The diameter of the oil passages (which determines the pressure) are not designed for it and you run the risk of too high pressure (not good). If you have a ticking in the upper engine on a high mileage engine it is most likely that the valve train components need to be serviced. Doing it by changing oil weight is a band-aid, not a cure. I recommend using 5W30 in northern climates and 10W30 in warmer areas.

 

i live in Colorado and my blazer has 188k and i run mobile 1 synthetic 5-30 and a thing of lucas synthetic oil treatment, my blazer holds great op and doesnt get down past 20 even on the hot 95+ days, and i never hear any valve tap on start up in the winter. we have had some -30 days this year and that combo hasnt let me down even then.

as far as the filter issue i only use k&n oil filters on mine as ive been running them for many years and just like them they are a little more then most but are worth the price, but i refuse to use fram as i have had one collapse on my (should i say this word) cj-5 jeep....

i also think its vehicle dependent, you just gotta find what works for your blazer and roll with that combo

 

well. appreciate your thoughts on what oil weight i should go with, and i'm leaving towards 10w40 and probably a napa gold filter...however, i recently consulted a good friend of mine who happens to be an ASE master mechanic. After listening to the noise (left it overnight at his house to get the noise to happen on cold start) it turns out its piston knock and not lifter noise, which makes sense since i was thinking it was a little loud to be a lifter...I've also done my reasearch and the common consensus is that theres nothing you can do about piston knock but deal with it. One last thing. Was just curious how long should i go with a 50/50 blend before i switch to full synthetic on a high mileage engine

 

Rock solid advice yet the OP apparently didn't read this or just ignored it. Too many folks looking for the band aid approach rather than to fix a problem. The 4.3 was designed to work on 5W-30 or 10W-30...only.

Putting a heavier weight oil in to bring your oil pressure back into specs is not the correct way to do things. There is an internal reason as to why the engine has lost pressure over the years.

If what a person is currently driving is a toss away vehicle, then go for it. However, if this is a vehicle you plan on having for a few more years, find out what the problem is and fix it. I can't think of a more simple way to put it.

 

you don't need any 50/50 mix or synthetic blend to switch to full synthetic. You may have needed it in the past but not anymore. at 865,xxx miles I switched my Cummins ISX to Mobile1 0w-40 and have not looked back....... got over a million miles on it and it still holds 20 psi @ idle and 40 psi @ under load.

My Lincoln has been running motorcraft full synthetic 5w-30 for over 150,000 miles. Still has 150 psi +/- 7% compression, and no ticks or knocks.

gonna switch the Blazer to Mobile1 5w30 on the next oil change.


but I agree that using a thicker oil to quiet an engine is just a band aid. My brother does that with his volkswagen because it leaks less oil when he uses 20-50...... his car has developed a rod knock since he started doing it but does not believe me when I tell him its because of the 20-50.


if your oil pressure is low then you should atleast pull the oil pump and replace it. might aswell put in new bearings while you got the pan off, its not that hard.... check your compression and re-ring the block too. its not that hard once you have the engine on the stand to rebuild it. First engine I ever rebuilt was a 6.2L diesel and it took me 4 hours from tear down to running on the stand.

 

Climate, climate, is the deterring factor of what weight oil needs to be use.

I know a man that has a 2nd generation S-10 pickup, not sure the year model, 4.3 TBI, he changes his own oil, uses strait 30 weight oil replacing one quart of oil with 1 quart of Rislone, 150,000 + thousand miles, he has had no motor trouble at all and it uses no oil.

I might add, he has done this in every vehicle they have owned, did I tell you he has owned a part store for the past 60 years and they do their deliver trucks the same way. One of their delivery vehicles was a S-10 1st generation with a diesel engine, they traded it off at 400,000 having had no internal engine troubles.

Its hard to argue against the number of vehicles they have owned through the years here in Southwest Arkansas and never having no internal engine trouble.

Through the years I've always use what we recommended by the maker. I've had lifter trouble out of 2 different vehicles, a 67 Chevelle SS 396 and my present 92 S-10 Blazer. At times I wonder, should I have done as he has?