I can't fit a Ratchet and I can't move the bolt with wrench
 

Ok so I have a 1995 Chevy LT Blazer that needs a transmission fluid change. Just one issue: I can't get to the transmission pan without removing the cross member that holds up the transmission itself! Now normally I would just use a ratchet and take the bolts off but I cant even get a ratchet into the transmission mount. I am completely stumped! I have no idea how to get this pan off and I already attempted once so I think I also have to replace the gasket. Can anyone please help me?

a decent size pipe on the wrench But be careful not to snap the bolt tho If it wont move the cross member has to be removed

Pictures would help us also

i always just use a 1/4 inch size ratchet, a small extension and i believe the bolt size is 13mm socket, never had a problem i changed the trans fluid in my 97 bravada
98 bravada
96 blazer
98 jimmy, all the same way, but someone said a while back swart i think "some blazers u have no choice but to move the crossmember" but i never had that problem. maybe your that rare %.

On my 2000 I had to unbolt the cross member to get to the pan. I was able to use a universal joint on 1, but then had to drop the cross member. Use a jack or jack stands to hold the transmission up.

Hey guys..
I know it's easy to read things wrong and the OP should have made it clearer

I dont have a clue cause I havent done it.. and I'm not about to crawl under to see what he's talking about.

OK, now I understand, but I'm confused all over again, haha. If we are talking about the the cross member bolts, which ones are we talking about, there are 6; 2 on each side through the frame rail and then the two that bolt to the transmission?

He said he wanted to remove the crossmember but couldnt get at the transmission mount bolts.

EDITED:

Calm down man, I'm not 100% what bolts he's talking about, so I went out and took a picture for clarification. Are these the bolts we are talking about? Sorry for the bad picture, the black is the cross member and the sliver/gray is the transmission. If so it is a 15mm socket, I would soak them in PB Blaster, WD40, etc. let it sit a little bit of time and then try them. If you do get them off, I supported the transmission with a jack and then gently tapped the cross member with a hammer, and then took a large screwdriver/pry bar and just popped the cross member off, make sure the tranny is supported or you'll have a whole other problem.

Also, pettyfrog, on my 2000 there are 6 bolts in the cross member. 2 in the passenger frame rail, 2 in the drivers frame rail, and then the two that I have taken a picture of for this post. I know all 6 were a bit rusted and gummed up on my Blazer, that that's why I was a little confused. No need to get frustrated, we are all just trying to help

In appropriate post.

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From that pic I'm confused too...

Kuojo, is there anyway that you can take a picture of exactly where you are running into a problem, so that there is no more confusion, the undercarriage of your vehicle may be different than mine, but if so, I'll still try to help you out as much as possible.

Rottidog pleads the 5th & that's pretty amazing for a Canadian lol

Need more information about the vehicle. Is this a TrailBlazer, or Blazer?

2, 4, or full time wheel drive?

A picture would help.

The part that has me stumped is teh part about not getting a rachet on the bolt. Can you clarify?
And since this is several days old, did you get it fixed?

I cleaned up your posts. In the future please offer advice and seek clarification to the problem. Please remember that a fair share of members don't have a clear understanding about auto mechanics. The intent of the site is to educate and help members find solutions to their challenges.

Thank you!

Ok so I figured out that the bolts I was trying to move were actually a part of the transmission and I got the cross member moved. I actually took the bolts off when moving the skid plates... I made a mistake lol sorry.. but now I can't get the clearance I need to put the pan back on the blazer. The exhaust pipe is in the way... What the hell where these people think when making this truck? Now what? Btw thanks for all the help and responses guys. First time working on a truck/car by myself. @Hanr3 the truck is a blazer 4wd.

Where is it hanging up on the exhaust at? I think when I did mine, I put the front of the pan in first so that I could clear the Y-Pipe.

Yeah it was so I just removed it and placed it back on once the pan was on. Thanks for all the help guys. Once I got the pan back on it was smooth sailing. Thanks for all the advice and help.

Ok I have another question: I need to replace the Oxygen sensors. When I went to the parts store they only had 2 upstream sensors, so I bought both. Can I use both sensors before the cat and after the cat or do I need to find a downstream sensor too?

When you jack up the tail of the tranny to get the crossmember out, leave it jack up so the pan will clear the Y-pipe.

As far as 02 sensors go, there are three wire and four wire sensors and that's about it. I've been told that they need to match the plug you have at the location you need it for.

When you replace the O2 Sensors, you have to have the Upstream 1 AND the Downstream 1. I think they are calibrated differently, so if you plug and upstream 1 into the downstream hole/connecter it will read wrong and throw a code and vice versa. Take one of the upstream 1's back and get the down stream 1.

Just curious though, why are you replacing the O2 sensors? Did it throw a code? Because if it threw a code, it will tell you which "bank it is." I think Bank 1 is before the Cat and Bank 2 is after the Cat, not 100% positive though. If it only requires bank 1, then unless you want to, you don't HAVE to change the other one, but I do know people who change both when ever they are doing one. I don't have that kind of money laying around haha

It uses an obd1 16 pin system.. So I can't use my code reader with it. It belonged to my grandparents first And it threw the code at them. I have no idea what the actual code is only that it has something to do with the O2 sensor. I already have both sensors but the parts guy said they were both upstream. I was going to use both and see what happens but I wanted to hear a second opinion for it first. I replaced the upstream already and the check engine light already came back on so now to tge back one I guess

My blazer is OBD1 and it only has one, four wired O2 sensor in the Y-pipe.

I can only find 2 but I keep hearing rumors that there may be a third that has to be replaced as well. I have one on my Y-pipe (already replaced) and another just behind the cat and right before the muffler. I am going to replace the one between the cat and the muffler and see what happens

If you had a third it would be located on the drivers side y-pipe just below the y-pipe to exhaust manifold connection, somewhere around the frame rail.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1..._O2_Sensor.gif

Try this

Fog, that picture is for the 98+ trucks.

A '95 OBD1 setup will only have 1 O2 sensor just after the 'y' in the y-pipe before the catalytic converter called the upstream sensor. The OBD1.5 & OBD2 '95 models will have 2, same location as the OBD1 setup as well as a post cat sensor. NEVER replace a post cat sensor unless it's setting a code and even then, only after properly diagnosing the code to determine if the sensor is actually faulty. Only the upstream sensor has anything to do with fuel management in the engine.

The sensors themselves are identical in every way; the AC Delco # is AFS75.

Alright. Guess its time to get the code now and see where the issue is. At least there is only 2 sensors on my truck, thanks guys for telling me. Do you know of any places that can scan an OBD1.5 code off a 16 pin connector?