I hate describing noises. I get this grindy rhythmic noise from the distributor cap. I suspect it might even be the noise I was assuming was a exhaust leak at acceleration. It isn't very loud at idle, but I can hear it, and feel it if I put my hand on the cap. I hope it is just a cap rotor issue. anybody have an idea. no lights or performance issues.

 

Take the distributor cap\rotor off and inspect.
Also, the pcv valve is near by, these can buzz when failing

 

its definitely coming from the cap, I will inspect it in the morning. I'm just hoping it isn't part of a larger problem

 

so I got antsy and looked at it a few minutes ago. first off someone put the wrong screw in the back and it was loose. second I don't know if it is normal, but I can pull the top of the shaft where the roter attaches forward about 1/4 of an inch, I doubt this is normal. any way, I couldn't find the right screw, but I got it tighter. it still clicks. Do I need a new dizzy, or should I try the new cap and roter w/ the proper screw. I don't want to just replace the cap, just to have it get screwed up again. how do you spell roter anyway?






if you can see it the contacts on the back of the cap are worn, but the play in the roter is toward the front, weird.

 

just posting this so my self or others can find it when necessary
HOW TO: Change A 4.3 Distributor...Chilton's Way... - S-10 Forum

 

Yes sir you need a new distributor, the top bushing is worn out, hit a salvage yard and get one cheap if you dont have the coin to drop $100+ for a new one.

 

that is what I thought. I found one for $109 with cap and rotor I just have to get brave enough to do it myself, and save the other $100 for labor.

 

If I set the engine to TDC before I remove the old dizzy, would that leave the oil pump slot lined up just right for when I slide in the new one.

 

some distributors are listed for being for the optional severe duty pump. is that the oil pump. did it come w/ the tow package, whats the difference in the distributor? I'm guessing it is either nothing at all, or the oil pump shaft is different.

 

so it's all done, just some tips,
1 Don't work on your ride with no sleep,
2 Don't label your wires with a sharpie, and then expect the marks to be there.
3 in case you try to ignore don't #1 trace your wires five times before you think you finally got them right.
4 Don't trust Torque to log your rpms

So after doing all my Don'ts it is finally done, but I still need plugs and wires, the noise is gone, and it runs a bit smoother, but not quite what I want.

and by the way the severe duty designation on the dizzy doesn't mean a thing, but my oil pressure is now a constant 40 psi where it was usually all over the place and low. hope that doesn't start a snowball effect.

I'm tired and rambling.