Alright one of the simplest questions for most of ya guys but here it goes. I need to replace the bearings on the Connecting Rods. I know how to do this and got pretty much a good understanding of how to do it by reading the book... but ya know how that is. If there is a simpler way to do it then please let me know. Main thing, I gotta get the oil pan off. SO if someone has actually done this before and can share their ways to do this quick that would be great. It is intermittent rain in this are but i gotta get it done so need to get it done QUICK!!...Thanks guys in advance.

 

Only way to get the oil pan off is to pull the engine. The front cross brace is in the way, and on a 4x4 the front axle is also in the way.
No simple way to it. Not going to be a weekend project either, unless you've done this a few times before.

 

alright i took a good long look at my truck today and i need the oil pan off. i understand the previous post said that you had to take the motor out but i apologize i can't accept that. The only thing that is in the way is the front axle for the 4wd. The haynes book also says that on the 98 and later blazer's can have the pan taken off with the motor still in the truck.

Few questions, first the tranny. Seems that the pan an tranny are attached so i would think that would be the first to remove bolts from. secondly if ANYONE has any advice to removing or just MOVING the front axle and differential that would be great. The book says you can unbolt the engine mounts and lift from the top but i don't have the means to do that. how would i remove the tranny and the front drive out of the way in order to remove this oil pan

 

I have plenty of experience with this... So let me tell you, because no matter how much you read or how much you change your wording, you are not going to get the answer you are fishing for.

First and foremost, the Rod & Main bearings wear on the Crankshaft. When they fail, you get a reman'ed crank and reman'ed rods and replace the unit. You can guess which one it is and hunt five times 'till you get it right, and then, is the journal even still round... If it has a knocking bearing on it, then no - it's not!

Reguardless of whether or not you get the pan out, who is to say there will be enough room to get at and work on what you need to.

Pull the motor, I can pull my motor fast than I can pull the front axle!

P.S. Just pull your distributor cap so it doesn't slam the firewall when you start to lift it out!

 

He has been told this before in another thread, but does not want to take the advise.

 

yes i have been told this before in a previous thread HOWEVER even the haynes book doesn't even say that you have to remove the motor. i DON't have the equipment to do it and there is no way that i could if i wanted to.
my intentions are to get this pan off and i have a whole set of bearings for it. I will just go ahead and replace all of them. I do know though that the knock is coming from the rear bearings and given that the day it started knocking i immediately stopped driving the truck. I'm sure that the crank is fine. IF someone knows how to remove the motor or has ideas bout it then let me know. I just don't have a lifter to do it with.

i apologize if anyone thinks that i am being hardheaded it just seems if the book don't require you to remove the motor then there is no reason i should have to. i DO appreciate everyones help and wish to continue receiving help.

 

Then why don't you just follow your book word for word and get it done? In the end, you are going to need most of the same tools to do it from the bottom as you are to do it correctly. You will have to lift the motor with something you know...

 

The "book" also tells you that best way to replace your front cv-axle is to pull the steering knuckle fromt eh ball joints and tie rod end. That is not hte best way. The "book" also tells you that you must lift the body to get to the top two tranny bellhousing bolts, also not the best way.

Crawl under your truck and look for the front cross member, its hidden amongst the front axle. To remove the front axle you have to remove both cv-axles, and then drop the front differential. Now you still ahve to contend with the front cross member. Look at your oil pan depth above the cross member, you have to have that much room between the bottom of the pan and the top of the cross member to get the pan past the crank journals. The journals go to within 1/4" of the pan bottom. Even the "book" tells says you must raise the engine. The only way to remove that pan is to lift the motor!

As for a lift, find your local rent a tool and see how much they charge to rent one. You can buy a brand new one for $120 or so. You could also buy a used one from a local pawn shop, or check the local Craigs list. Ask around, a friend of the family might have one to loan you.

If you ahve a garage, reinforce the rafter and used a which from Harbor Frieght. Hell, use a tree outside. The motor weights about 475 pounds fully dressed.

IF a hoist is completely out of the question, use a floor jack. Put a piece of 2x6 between the floor jack and oil pan, remove the engine mount bolts and jack it up. Once up, put some wood betweent eh motor mounts to hold the engine up. Do NOT jack the motor up by the crank pulley.

Hoist option from Harbor Frieght.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=996

 

You no you came on the forum asking for advise, I am telling you we have tried to give the BEST advice we all can ,as we have been down this Road before. Believe us as a Forum we have your best INTREST at heart. Good Luck T.J.

 

Thanks guys i know i have been a pain with this but a great idea was mentioned. seeing that i don't have the means to necessarily lift the truck from the top i will lift it from the bottom then place a "spacer" or something between the motor mounts. After that will unbolt and remove the pan. Thanks again for the help, even while i been a pain.