No problem... fuel delivery on these things is critical. Low fuel pressure, excessive leakdown or fuel starvation can cause problems very similar to what you're experiencing. Most auto parts stores rent/loan the testers for free and sell them for around $40. Let me know when you have one available. It's simple and it only takes about 15 minutes to test it.

 

By left side I assume you are referring to the driver's side. That plug might go to your A/C Compressor right behind the pulley.

 

Can you post a picture of the connector, and its location? Might be for an option that your vehicle is not equipped with.... ABS brakes maybe??????

 

Here is a pic of the connector....
[IMG][/IMG]

also... i finally got the tranny pan off after jacking to the sky. Pan looked good, no metal. Tore the filter open and found it filled with tons of tiny black flat pieces... looks like pieces of gasket that shrank and hardened to me. However, I did manage to tap to hard on the side of the TCC PWM and break the clip attached to it... I was like OH NO! THEEEEENN, I take the solenoid out and it looks like this...
[IMG][/IMG]

SO, IDK if that looks okay to you, but it looks pretty much like crap to me, it's gotta get replaced anyway now so guess I'll cross my fingers it's also related to my issue. Not the clearest photo, but there is a lot of corrosion and seems like that plastic clip was kinda half melted? idk, maybe they are supposed to look like this after a while.

 

Hmmmm, sure looks like a 95 or older engine to me. Does your engine look like this and say "VORTEC" on the top?:



You've got a Harrison R4 A/C compressor, just like in the image above, mounted on the passenger side. The connector is for the high pressure cut out switch on the rear of the compressor. AC doesn't work does it?

The solenoid has a definite problem. I think you're right about the pieces... old gasket. Could be a piece is stuck in the servo, who knows. All you can do is stick a new solenoid in and try it.

Edit: In your first post you said 96 Blazer... 96 doesn't use green & dark blue wires for the cut out switch, 95 and older does

 

HOLY $#()$%#&)$%#), how the heck has the woman be telling me for years that this is a 1996, LMBO (and groaning with frustration at the same time). you are correct though, I pulled out the registration. It's a 95. SOOOOOO well yeah, that would have been great to know before I tore apart some area of every system lol. I'm guessing OBD1 or having the mechanic set to THE RIGHT YEAR might have gotten me those codes. I kinda wanna go crawl under a rock after seeing that. ALSO, I see that the 95 supposedly has matching solenoids for the 3-2 shift and the TCC PWM. Where as in 96 it supposedly changed and they were no longer identical. Should make finding my solenoid a little easier, maybe cheaper. I'm going to try to pick up a multimeter this morning so I can test for resistance across the ugly solenoid I found. Now, certainly I think I did the might have done the final blow to it with the corner of the pan; however my friend said when he saw it last night that the clip had clearly been apoxied to the solenoid at some point, and thats what all the "Corrosion" looking stuff was.
We built a little circuit off a 12v drill charger/batt and when we put the solenoid on it the circuit wouldn't complete... so IDK, hillbilly test #1 says that sucker is bad. I'll have more to go on later today! THANK YOU SO MUCH! THIS explains why my PCM pin-out didn't match, should have been my first clue.. I started looking at 97, 98 pinouts but I hadn't gotten to looking at the older ones yet. I have learned so much in such a short amount of time and can't tell you enough how valuable your help so far has been. Have a great Saturday!

 

I went and bought a multimeter, and even though it's my first time using one... I think I did it right- says it's dead as a doornail. WOOOOOT!!!

I wanted to test the 3-2, what the hay, it tested about 10.5ohms... fine, right?

 

Always good to know what year the vehicle is, it saves a bunch of grief The difference between 95 & 96 could also explain why you had trouble with the scan tool communicating. 1995 was a "hodge podge" year for fuel delivery systems and computer controls on S&T series vehicles. There were 3 different computer control systems, and two different fuel delivery systems. Not all scan tools are able to communicate with one of the systems. Which connector for the scan tool is under the dash, top one or bottom one?


The transmission solenoid should have "clicked" when you applied 12 volts & ground to the terminals. No clicky = no worky, and the solenoid needs to be replaced. When you're done with that adventure, drive it and see what happens, then we can check fuel delivery.

 

I'm excited my solenoids will be here tomorrow (along with snow storm). i'm just wanting to get it together and if there is a problem i'll start over but someone told me the strangest thing earlier. They told me to refill with nothing but type F fluid.... ummmmmmmmmm...... they explained that it has no detergents/additives ect and i should make sure i don't use anything extra as well. What's your recommendation here?

 

DexronVI fluid ONLY. DO NOT use type F, unless you want a new transmission. This is the stuff to use: Valvoline MaxLife Dextron/Mercon (ATF) Automatic Transmission Fluid (1 Gallon) 773775: You

Which OBD connector do you have?


edit: It is not "DexTron" it is Dexron.