Craigstamper77. You came to the best forum on the web for blazer owners and got help from one of the most talented members here. Believe me when I tell you that you are not going to hurt Les’ feelings or make his butt hurt. As a matter of fact here he is still trying to help you. It would seem to me that it’s the other way around and you got embarrassed to ask for help and are thrashing around a trying to still get to the answer before it has to come with help. Settle down sparky and relax, some of us are headstrong and opinionated here but we can help you fix your truck and everyone gets to learn something including us. I managed 1,000 engineers at one point in my working career and the best ones were always opinionated and headstrong. Your lucky to have that resource paying attention to your problem. Let’s relax and get your truck fixed.


George

 

Yep, if you don't pay attention and give credence to the things that we advise - what possible other motive could we have to be here. Some of us like to go through the diagnostic thought process and actually do learn a lot from other's experiences - but the diagnostic thought process has to be followed and reported or it all becomes just a colossal waste of time and is very uninteresting to us. This is why I answered you the way I did. You gave me nothing back in return for my advice.

You don't put oil in by pouring it on the engine and hoping it will suck in somewhere! Why start guessing and hoping to hit the actual problem based on what someone else in the Internet says fixed theirs. That my friend is only one-dimensional thinking and I could see you doing it.

With a Blazer no-start - you always start by verifying fuel to injectors. Then move to ignition. Then injector pulses. And so forth. If you don't have a logical plan, then you are just guessing.

At some point because its easy and cheap to do, you could pull a couple of spark plugs and check for the vehicle being flooded. Or just hold the pedal to the floor while cranking with a fully charged battery (max 30 seconds). If it is, check temp sensors with a scanner when cold.

 

To add to Les' thoughts about diagnostics

https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...k-flow-103979/

and my thoughts on no start:

https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...rticle-103750/

BTW, my butt does not hurt either.


George

 

Sorry for jumping in here but I was researching and saw the situation and would gladly accept your assistance. I purchased a 2004 ZR2 a week ago. I don't put much on sellers but was told the proverbial little old lady was driving and it just stalled. They guy who I purchased it said he did so to repair it. he put in a fuel pump and new plugs and wires. So not being my first Blazer rodeo I checked the fuel pressure. 58psi proper bleed down. I added new cap and rotor. I also ow a 2004 Jimmy ZR2 so I removed the coil and coil module assembly and it works fine in my jimmy. So now I have run my course and would like to understand the passlock. I might note the alleged little old lady didn't install the pioneer 7 inch and amp which has wires everywhere so I suspect someone might have shorted something. What were you going to say about what is the security light doing? Oh yes, I have a good OBD11 scanner and it shows no codes. Feel free to ask any questions and sorry for my long winded journey to the point.

 

So it cranks but wont run or cranks, runs then stalls after a few seconds?

I would normally tell you to start a new thread but I don't think the OP will be back.

George

 

No it has never ran since purchase. I purchased it with a story and as a Not starting vehicle.

 

So it cranks (starter turns) but will not start/run or it does not even crank?

George

 

It cranks fine. Security light is flashing. I just tested the pink wire going to the coil and I'm getting 12 volts.

 

OK, now we can get started.

If your cranking but not running then you either have a problem with fuel (pressure or injection), spark, timing or air

Since you already tested fuel pressure we will assume that your fuel pump is OK

Next up is spark. While cranking look for 1" of strong blue spark with a steady cadence on at least two ignition wires at the plug ends.

If that OK then its on to injector pulses. You say that you security light is flashing which can be a passlock problem but not always. It can be other things like a class 2 serial communication link failure between modules for instance. If the passlock sensor is defective or changed without a proper relearn, the usual malfunction is it runs for a few seconds after cranking and then dies as the PCM disables the fuel injector pulses. You don't state that behavior or answer all of my questions so we need to check the fuel injector pulse signals during cranking. First up is checking for 12V on the 6 pink power wires going into the fuel injector harness while in the run position.

If that's OK then we need to check for ground side control pulses from the PCM on the other 6 wires in the harness with a noid light or a test light. If we end up here I can guide you if you need help.

Report back.

George

 

Okay. As I am on my own I'll go get a spark tester and set it up to with video record with my phone. Back in an hour. Appreciate the help.