It sucks air into the air pump.

 

Sorry double post

 

I've worked on a lot of vehicles and I can't remember one time on any of them where there's a hose "just sucking in air" and its suppose to be that way....I'm sorry my friend but whoever told u or wherever u got ur info, ur wrong....that hose goes to something, u have a vacume leak

 

No my friend, you have you're information wrong.

The secondary air injection system is used to heat you vehicle's catalytic converter to temperatures suitable for burning off harmful emission gases. It basically pumps oxygen into the exhaust pipe, which allows the converter to reach temperatures of 500+ degrees.

 

I've extended mine up into the fender well with another length of hose to avoid sucking in water. In my 2000 water got into the pump and eventually trashed it along with the check valves. I'll see if I can get a pic later.

 

If u read this it looks like gm did away with the hose just layin on the intake and redesigned it so u don't get water in it<A href="http://service.gm.com/servlets/BlobShtml?ShtmlFile=1480333&psdid=171&evc=sm#ss1-1480333">Condition Some owners may comment on the check engine light being illuminated. Upon investigation, the technician may find a DTC P0410 indicating that there is a concern in the secondary air injection system. <A href="http://service.gm.com/servlets/BlobShtml?ShtmlFile=1480333&psdid=171&evc=sm#ss2-1480333">Cause Water may have collected in the AIR pump or the vent solenoid and frozen or corroded the pump. <A href="http://service.gm.com/servlets/BlobShtml?ShtmlFile=1480333&psdid=171&evc=sm#ss3-1480333">Correction Replace the AIR pump and install a new inlet hose and solenoid tube assembly using the following procedure: 1. <LI type=1>Prep vehicle. <LI type=1>Raise vehicle on hoist. <LI type=1>Remove shield covering AIR pump. <LI type=1>Remove hose and vacuum lines from pump and solenoid. <LI type=1>Remove AIR pump inlet hose. Do not re-use. <LI type=1>Disconnect electrical connectors from pump and solenoid. <LI type=1>Remove pump mounting bolts and pump. <LI type=1>Transfer isolators from the old pump to the new pump. <LI type=1>Install new AIR pump and bolts to vehicle. Tighten Tighten the bolts to 17N·m (12.5 lb ft) <LI type=1>Route new hose assembly up between engine and fender. It should come up near the area between the battery and the coolant bottle. <LI type=1>Connect new inlet hose to pump inlet. <LI type=1>Connect old outlet hose to pump outlet. <LI type=1>Connect electrical connector to pump. <LI type=1>Connect electrical connector for solenoid to connector on the new hose assembly. <LI type=1>Connect the hose with the white nipple to the vacuum source hose. <LI type=1>Connect the remaining hose to the shut off valve. <LI type=1>Install shield covering AIR pump. <LI type=1>Lower vehicle. <LI type=1>Remove coolant reservoir nut nearest the battery. <LI type=1>Route new hose assembly between the battery and the coolant reservoir with the solenoid on top. <LI type=1>Install the solenoid bracket onto the coolant reservoir stud and reinstall the nut back into the vehicle. 2. Use a wire tie to keep the new hose assembly away from the engine. On four cylinder engines, tie to the AIR outlet hose. On six cylinder engines, tie to an available hole in the radiator fan shroud.

 

Geez! This is what I was talking about.


The whole point is I have never seen any maker just leave the end of a hose open. Any A.I.R pump I ever saw had at least a mesh filter at the inlet.

 

I would love to read this, but I but I cant seam to follow any of the links