What would be about the best engine oil flush for a fair price? Needs to be about to help get out the small gasket particles. I'm figuring gunk. The oil will be change after flush whether required or not. What do you peoples think?

 

Gunk makes a good flush. Seafoam works well also and is one of those all-in-one bottles (fuel injector cleaner, intake/valve cleaner, and engine flush). Just follow the directions on the bottle which ever one you choose.

How big are the gasket chunks??? If they are large, I don't think that a flush is going to do any good... It takes time for gaskets to break down.

Also, you may want to switch over to snythetic. It will keep the inside of your engine cleaner than conventional.

 

I would definately recommend switching to a synthetic oil, especially Amsoil XL. Amsoil also makes a good oil flush, which you would need to use anyways if you switched to a full synthetic.

 

IMO, Amsoil is over priced for their engine oil. I do use their ATF in both of my vehicles and LOVE IT!... Mobil 1 has the same ratings in independant tests and is available EVERYWHERE. On the oil flush before switching... It is better to do a flush before switching, especially in higher mileage engines, but it is not absolutely necessary. I would still recommend your first oil change after the flush-fill with synthetic to be after around 3000 miles. After that, you can go at your discretion. I still don't go over 8000 mile intervals with either of my vehicles even on synthetic oil. I'm getting close to that now on the Bonneville which has an oil life indicator that is still reading 50+% oil life remaining... I like the extra stability/protection of the synthetic oil and it's cleaning properties. I really don't care if the manufacturer claims the oil can go for 20,000 miles, it will never stay in my engine that long, period. For what it costs me to change the oil (5qts of Mobil 1 5w30 or 10w30 for $22 from Walmart + $5 for a Pure-One filter = $27), it is worth the peace of mind to change it at extended intervals, but still well below the claimed interval. As it is, I barely do 2 oil changes per vehicle per year.

 

Well I got 254000 miles and finally have to go into the engine. My valves are well worn so I will be getting a head job this weekend. I have to tear her down thursday so the heads can be delivered friday morning. It is more than expected that a few gasket particles will get into there and I am very sure there will be some carbon cakes. I plan to pull as much out as I can get to. The rest will be up to the flush. So it would be a good idea to give her synthetics afterwards in my book. Though I am partial to castrol I could vear to another brand.

 

Actually Amsoil outperforms Mobil 1 Syn on every test except the Cold Cranking Viscosity test.
What do you pay for Amsoil? Here I can get Amsoil XL 7500 for about $4.50 a quart and it's rated for 7500 miles, although I only go 4000.

 

Amsoil around here is up around $5.75/qt and I can buy the 5qt container of Mobil 1 from Wally-world for $22.50. I have seen many tests performed by "independent" labs that favored Amsoil, but I have also seen TRUE independent tests by individuals (one that I know personally) that have put the 2 of them on a level playing field. Don't get me wrong, I think that Amsoil is one hell of an oil, but for motor oil, it is more expensive than an equal (or marginally less) performing, but cheaper alternative.

I'll have to take a look around again and see what I can find as far as Amsoil prices again. That $5.75 was from atleast a year ago. Like I said before, I only use Amsoil Synthetic ATF and it will always be the only ATF I use!

 

Oh also, I would steer clear of Castrol's line of "synthetic" fluids. There was a time (not too long ago) when they claimed that their synthetic oil was pure synthetic when in fact it was a blend. I believe there was a lawsuit and they have since had to change their marketing. If it is what has worked for you in the past, then by all means, stick with it.

To me oil loyalties are like automaker loyalties. If you have always been in to Chevy's and they have always been good to you, then why switch even if the next guy raves about his Dodge.

 

Although castrol is my juice I have never messed with there synthetics so you would probably know more than I on that line.

 

When you pull the heads, I find it usefull to hold my shop vac above the scrapper. That way any loose gasket material will get sucked up, rather then drop into the oil/coolant passages. I am not a fan of letting debris get in those passages. Oil/coolant will flow through a smaller hole then any solid material and you don't want a passage plugged up. If it does you could lose the engine and have to rebuild the whole thing. A coolant and oil flush afterwards is still a good idea though. I also like to use a product called "gasket remover", spray it on and let it sit. It softens the gasket material so it scraps off real easy, rinse with water. Then for my own safisfaction I clean the mounting surface with brake cleaner, removes any residue and drys clean. Careful, bare metal will rust if not treated with a light coat of oil and covered with plastic. Hit it with the brake cleaner when your ready to assemble.

I also run Castrol or Valvoline regular dino oil. Never had a problem.

I use Marvelous Marvins Mystery Oil flush to flush my engines at every 100,000 mile mark. I do it for 2 oil changes in a row. Does a great job cleaning out the gunk. Gunk is another good brand. I have not tried the Sea-Foam yet, altough I tend to stay away from all-in-one products.