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Old Nov 22, 2021 | 12:46 AM
  #11  
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George ....are you a robot...you sure act like a robot..when I sprayed the either why did it take off and stay running and " keep the fuel" instead of shutting down when the either ran out...it kept the fuel....how did it stay running...for hours...did the start up bring back the fuel pressure...not on a electric pump...
 
Old Nov 22, 2021 | 12:52 AM
  #12  
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I don’t think I’m a robot but if I was maybe I wouldn’t know it. What is your resting battery voltage and what is during cranking. Maybe your overcoming a marginal fuel pump once it starts and the alternator kicks in.


George
 
Old Nov 22, 2021 | 01:10 AM
  #13  
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Now I can understand you ...🤣🤣..that's a good thought...I did notice that after I drove it home when i tried to start it the next day after two tries the battery was drained ..but this has persisted for almost 2 years now could the part or the battery degrade that slowly...I'm just having a conversation here...and it did start some time after I put in a new fuel pump in.. I can't exactly recall the first time it happened...I'll get that pressure gauge on there and check voltages and I'll I'll check back with ya..I've heard the pressure regulator is a problem on these..how hards that job...
 
Old Nov 22, 2021 | 08:41 AM
  #14  
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You are going to need to get that battery and system voltage thing straightened out. A fully charged battery holds 12.65 volts at rest measured at the battery posts after its properly charged and has the surface charged knocked off. If not then the charging source or the battery is defective. The system voltage then needs to stay within spec during cranking. If not then check at the battery terminals during cranking and if low then the battery is defective. If OK at the battery but system voltage is low then there is a wiring problem.

If that all checks out and it’s drained after a couple of days of sitting then either the battery is defective or you have an excessive parasitic drain when the truck is turned off and that needs to be located and corrected.

once that’s addressed then you can start narrowing down your starting problem if it remains by testing during the failure.

the pressure regulator is tested by performing the fuel pressure test in the sticky.

what brand of fuel pump did you put in and how many miles are on that pump?

George
 
Old Jan 6, 2022 | 08:08 PM
  #15  
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Two words....pass lock.....bypassed the keyswitch passlock system and did a relearn and haven't had a problem since .the system was shutting the fuel down after two seconds,that's why it would try to run then after 10 minutes or so it would reset and it would start fine....the easiest but most frustrating fix ever.....thanks for all the help though
 
Old Jan 6, 2022 | 08:24 PM
  #16  
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But george I have one more issue I'm gonna pick your brain about...here's the scenario...I'm driving at 55..and one of two thing happens...I get a single misfire and my tach will drop to 0 and stay there for a varied amount of time..maybe 1 mile maybe 10 then boom another misfire and the tach is back registering fine...or I get multiple misfires and the tach goes crazy literally from max to 0 and everywhere in between,now this second condition typically only lasts for a few seconds but I can't help feel they are related..now mind you in the first case it will run fine with the tach at 0 till it comes back online..it's never quit or stalled so was wondering if you had any ideas thanks ...meigs
 
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