Engine & Transmission Post your Engine and Transmission related problems here.

Rebuild or buy new?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 09-08-2013, 11:37 AM
alain007's Avatar
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 29
alain007 is on a distinguished road
Default Rebuild or buy new?

Hi guys,

In another thread I found out I am the proud owner of a crappy 350 engine from 1973 whereas my Blazer is from 1978. It recently developed a knock so I pulled out the engine. Now I am looking at all the parts and I found that the crankshaft has too much end play (0.009). But I also see some other things that got me worried and as I am not an experienced rebuilder (read: first time) I would like to get your opinios. In this post some pictures to explain a bit more in detail.

I can see the engine is overbored with 0.4. Not only when measuring but also looking at the piston (see picture). So I think it is at the max it can be.

But I also see the cylinder has some damage (see picture). It is like some of the metal came off. It has this on 2 cylinders. I am wondering if this can be fixed.

The crankshaft also looks quite worn (see picture) and together with the end play I assume it needs to be replaced. When looking at the rod bearing (see picture) it also seems to be worn.

What would be wisedom? Try to rebuild or buy a new engine? I am not sure if this engine can be saved and if so what should be done about the cylinders?

If I would buy a new engine where should I look?

Thanks for the help!
 
Attached Thumbnails Rebuild or buy new?-bearing-wear.jpg   Rebuild or buy new?-crankshaft-wear.jpg   Rebuild or buy new?-cylinder-damage-2.jpg   Rebuild or buy new?-cylinder-damage.jpg   Rebuild or buy new?-piston.jpg  

  #2  
Old 09-08-2013, 12:14 PM
Twip's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Bellflower, Cali
Posts: 877
Twip will become famous soon enough
Default

as far as the cylinders, it doesnt look like they are 'missing' anything. to me, it looks like carbon build up. take something to it and see if it chips off, maybe a small screwdriver. just be careful, you dont want to gouge the cylinder wall. if it is missing something, it looks like its out of the stroke range so it may not be a big deal. (have an engine guy look at it) the crank shaft is probably toast judging by the rod bearing.
i would say at the very least you are going to be buying a set of rods, crankshaft and all the bearings. including the camshaft bearings. no since in doing a rebuild and leaving something like that out. if it were me, i would get the block checked out and go from there. then, if you can reuse the block, start pricing things out. you are going to have kind of a big parts list. new crank, rods, bearings, piston rings, gaskets, ect ect. you are also going to have to have some machine work done to make sure that the cylinders are round. just a hone job should suffice. otherwise i think that you can bore that out a little more. i forget what the maximum is on a 350 block. but i think that you can go up to .060 over.

good luck.
 
  #3  
Old 09-08-2013, 12:39 PM
alain007's Avatar
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 29
alain007 is on a distinguished road
Default

Maybe a stupid question, but why would I need new rods? Would those be damaged as well?

In regards to the cylinder wall, I removed the carbon build up but the damage is out of stroke range and is the part where the combustion takes place. I guess it happened because it is running on LPG which is hotter than gasoline.

In the other topic I found that the heads are probably are from a 305 and the engine is a smoggy 350. I was looking to get more horsepower out of it but it is going to be costly I am afraid. Probably looking for a new engine.

Any good websites for this that also ship to Holland? I dont need a high performance engine. Stock or little over is also good.
 
  #4  
Old 09-08-2013, 12:45 PM
Twip's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Bellflower, Cali
Posts: 877
Twip will become famous soon enough
Default

sorry about the rod thing, i am so used to seeing stuff really blown up i.e. bent rod(s). so yeah, force of habit i guess. you wouldnt need new rods. but with buying a new crankshaft, you will have to have everything balanced too. since you are just looking for something closer to stock than street/strip, it would behoove you to find someone or some company that will either ship it out to you, or you can go and pick it up.

this is why i said that i am used to things being more blown up. although he didnt break anything, he did burn up a few pistons when he ran out of gas at the end.
 

Last edited by Twip; 09-08-2013 at 12:47 PM.
  #5  
Old 09-09-2013, 02:26 PM
alain007's Avatar
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 29
alain007 is on a distinguished road
Default Looking for parts

Ok, this post is either going to make me stupid or give me a nodge in the right direction. I have been looking for parts at mostly summit racing and I got a list. To keep the price reasonable I decide to stay more or less stock. I would really appreciate it when somebody could give me some feedback on it.

I started from the point that I need to machine the block and bore it to 0.60. Also because of the 305 cylinders heads I need some replacements of those as well. So here goes nothing:

Engine kit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-sbckit1-600

Camshaft:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k12-243-3

Rocker arms:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6800 (still missing the rods)

Crankshaft:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-103503480

Headers:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-2453hkr

Cylinder heads:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-152123

Carburator:
Holley Performance Products 600 CFM Four Barrel Street Carburetor*0-1850S

I would really appreciate it when somebody can take the time to look at it and tell me if it makes any sense.

Btw, I know I am still missing the air filter, new spark plugs and oil filter.
 

Last edited by alain007; 09-09-2013 at 02:29 PM.
  #6  
Old 09-09-2013, 03:21 PM
chris015's Avatar
BF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 3,748
chris015 has a spectacular aura aboutchris015 has a spectacular aura aboutchris015 has a spectacular aura about
Default

you dont need the rocker arms,look into a pair of vortec heads. Its cheaper and about the same as what you have selected. Im not a pro when it comes to camshafts,but you might end up needing higher stall torque converter.


HONESTLY this is what you need
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...make/chevrolet
1600 bucks,free shipping,already assembled. No machine shop crap to deal with,no worries about bad parts. grab you a manifold off ebay for 100 bucks and a carb and fly! The time you save you can also regear to some 3:73s for some good acceleration in the city.
 
  #7  
Old 09-09-2013, 03:29 PM
alain007's Avatar
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 29
alain007 is on a distinguished road
Default

That is a really good idea. I was looking to do a rebuild myself not realizing that buying a new one would probably be cheaper.

Could I use my old manifold and carb on it? Saves some more money for now.

Edit:just checked, shipping to Holland is +$600!!! Something to think about.
 

Last edited by alain007; 09-09-2013 at 03:39 PM.
  #8  
Old 09-09-2013, 03:44 PM
TZFBird's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 752
TZFBird is on a distinguished road
Default

Just an idea, but I picked up a 2000 5.3 with PCM and harness for $400. Not sure what they run where you are but for a factory reliable 320hp it's not a bad price. You can either stick with the fuel injection or convert it to carb. I'm guessing $1000 would get you a fairly low mile engine/trans combo that would only require minor wiring to the gauge panel.
 
  #9  
Old 09-09-2013, 04:26 PM
chris015's Avatar
BF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 3,748
chris015 has a spectacular aura aboutchris015 has a spectacular aura aboutchris015 has a spectacular aura about
Default

Originally Posted by alain007
That is a really good idea. I was looking to do a rebuild myself not realizing that buying a new one would probably be cheaper.

Could I use my old manifold and carb on it? Saves some more money for now.

Edit:just checked, shipping to Holland is +$600!!! Something to think about.
yikes. have you looked up on craigslist etc for a good running engine? cool thing about oldschool chevys is theres millions of cheap good running motors around. ive found a few as low as 250.00
Originally Posted by TZFBird
Just an idea, but I picked up a 2000 5.3 with PCM and harness for $400. Not sure what they run where you are but for a factory reliable 320hp it's not a bad price. You can either stick with the fuel injection or convert it to carb. I'm guessing $1000 would get you a fairly low mile engine/trans combo that would only require minor wiring to the gauge panel.
He said he wasnt much of a mechanic. 5.3 swaps needs some wiring mods,and a few other things he may or may not know about. and by the times hes done he could have a new engine thats dependable.

Op are you looking into More of a fun ride with hp or just something decent and dependable? If im wrong about you being mildly to little mechanically inclined,my bad. Ive read way to many threads to remember whats what. lol
 
  #10  
Old 09-09-2013, 04:30 PM
alain007's Avatar
Beginning Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 29
alain007 is on a distinguished road
Default

Here in Holland most things that are sold are crap and another mans junk.

But I just remembered I am working for an international company also based in the US so I am trying to get a quote for sea freight from there. Should save some serious money.

Btw you are right I am not a mechanic. I got the sucker out of the car, disassembled and got stuck . Learning every day.
 


Quick Reply: Rebuild or buy new?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:05 AM.