New to the forum, so hello everyone. I see this topic discussed several times on this site, but not my specific problem. I have a 1995 blazer 4.3, 4x4. I need to replace the lines to the oil filter adapter, but my vehicle has the strut bar that goes between the lines and connects the block to the torque converter housing. the lower bolt is easily accessible, but that upper bolt at the block is not. How have others removed this? My hose pulled out of the crimp fitting, so repairing it doesn’t seem to be an option.

thanks in advance for any help!

B

 

As i have continued to research this, It seems that people have tried cutting off the outer portion of the crimp fitting and then hose-clamping the hose back onto the inner nipple. Has anyone tried this and does it hold up to the pressure?

 

If you had a 98-05 I could offer some help, but I've never worked on, let alone crawled under, a 1st gen.

 

I appreciate the response. I did just find the following post from several years ago that deals with my same problem. Sounds like this member couldn’t find a way either and ended up hose-clamping hoses onto the hard lines. I suppose that will be my solution. I just hate not doing a complete repair.

https://blazerforum.com/forum/engine...r-lines-87556/

 

i have a 98 4x4 that i need to replace the rear remote cooler line on and dont seem to have enough space to get an extension back there. Is it true i will need to jack the engine up to create the necessary clearance?

 

I have a ZR2 with a body lift, and before the body lift I just use a 3/8" ratchet with about 1 1/2 feet (give or take) of extensions plus a universal and the the correct sized socket. Much easier if you have a helper. You can't get to the bolt and turn it unless you have a cordless or air ratchet, but I don't believe there is enough room for either to work.

You might want to start another thread as it will get more exposure, though.

 

im slightly confused by your reply. I have extension and ratchets and a cordless if needed. You say though that you cant turn the bolt without a cordless or air ratchet. Do you mean the bolt for the hanger in the middle of the oil lines or the one at the end that mounts the line? I may start my own thread or may even pay my mechanic to just go at it for me.

 

When I replaced those holes, I used a super long 3/8" drive extension to reach in from the front to get at the bolt that secures the end of the hoses to the adapter.

As for the little bolt that secures the hoses to the block, I can't remember how I got to it, but a 1/4" drive socket wrench might be needed, in addition to going through the wheel well.

 

ive already got the bolt for the hanger off its the one at the rear that i cant get to. Probably going to remove my motor mount and lift the engine

 

I meant that I needed to use the extensions, from the front, with a universal and the correct socket with a ratchet. There is no room if going close to the block to move a ratchet. If you can get a cordless or air ratchet in there, you could possibly do the job. The first time I had to change those lines I used extensions, and that is what I have used since. I do have an air ratchet but haven't bothered to try it out. Maybe next time I'll give it a shot. And, yes, there will be a next time, trust me.

It's not a hard job to do, providing you have the right tools. No since in having a shop do it. They will charge much more than what the right tools will cost. Bonus of buying the tools to do the job is you will have them next time the job needs to be done again. Your choice, though.